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Recipe: Pati Jinich’s Chiles en Nogada
Recipe Information
This recipe for Chiles en Nogada is based on the version Pati Jinich learned from Luis Bello Morin, then director of the restaurant at Mexico City’s Palacio de Bellas Artes. Roasted poblano chiles are filled with a savory-sweet mixture of meat, tomatoes, fresh and candied fruit, nuts, spices and olives, then covered in a creamy walnut sauce and finished with pomegranate seeds and parsley.
The recipe takes some planning, but several components can be prepared in advance. The chiles can be roasted, peeled and soaked up to four or five days ahead, while the filling and walnut sauce can each be made up to two days before serving. The assembled dish is served at room temperature, with the green poblanos, white walnut sauce and red pomegranate echoing the colors of the Mexican flag.
Yield: 10 chiles
Ingredients
For the chiles
10 poblano chiles
6 cups water
5 tablespoons shredded or chopped piloncillo or brown sugar
For the meat
2 pounds pork shoulder, leg or ribs, or a combination of meats such as veal and beef, deboned and cut into 3- to 4-inch chunks
2 garlic cloves
¼ white onion
1 carrot, peeled and halved
¼ teaspoon dried thyme or a couple sprigs fresh thyme
5 black peppercorns
1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
For the filling
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
¼ cup white onion, chopped
1 pound ripe tomatoes, puréed, or about 2 cups tomato purée
All of the cooked meat, finely chopped
2 cups reserved meat cooking broth
1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
3 ounces candied pineapple, chopped
1 cup ripe plantain, peeled and diced
1 Bartlett pear, diced (about 1¼ cups)
1 Golden Delicious apple, diced (about 1¼ cups)
1 large yellow peach, ripe but firm, diced (about 1¼ cups)
Pinch ground cumin
Pinch ground cloves, or 4 to 5 whole cloves, seeds crushed and stems discarded
1 Ceylon or true cinnamon stick
¼ cup golden raisins
¼ cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted
¼ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
¼ cup chopped Manzanilla olives
For the walnut or pecan sauce
1½ cups freshly peeled walnuts; if fresh walnuts are unavailable, use pecans rather than packaged walnuts
2½ cups heavy cream
½ cup milk, plus more as needed
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more to taste
Pinch kosher or coarse sea salt, or to taste
Pinch ground white pepper
1 tablespoon dry sherry, plus more to taste
For the garnish
1 cup pomegranate seeds
¼ cup chopped parsley, optional
Preparation
STEP ONE
Rinse the poblano chiles. Char them under the broiler, on a grill or hot comal, or directly over an open flame, turning every 2 to 3 minutes, until the skins are blistered and charred all over but not burnt.
STEP TWO
While the chiles are still hot, transfer them to a plastic bag, seal tightly and cover with a kitchen towel. Let them steam for 10 to 20 minutes.
STEP THREE
Working with one chile at a time, carefully peel away the charred skin, lightly rinsing with water as you go. Cut a slit lengthwise down one side of each chile and remove the seeds and membranes, taking care not to tear the flesh and leaving the stem intact.
STEP FOUR
Combine the water and piloncillo or brown sugar in a saucepan and simmer until the sugar has completely dissolved. Let cool, then pour the mixture over the prepared chiles. Soak for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. If soaking for more than 2 hours, cover and refrigerate once cooled.
Drain the chiles before using. They can be prepared through this step and refrigerated for up to 4 to 5 days.
STEP FIVE
Place the meat, garlic, onion, carrot, thyme, peppercorns and salt in a large pot. Cover with water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, until the meat is cooked through. Remove from the heat and let the meat cool in the broth.
STEP SIX
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a cutting board and finely chop it. Strain the cooking broth and reserve 2 cups for the filling.
STEP SEVEN
Heat the olive oil in a large, deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped garlic and cook for about 1 minute, until fragrant but not browned. Add the onion and cook for about 2 minutes, until softened and beginning to color.
STEP EIGHT
Add the tomato purée and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, until it deepens in color, thickens and loses its raw flavor.
STEP NINE
Add the chopped meat, 2 cups reserved cooking broth and salt. Stir to combine and cook for 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the candied pineapple, stir to combine and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes.
STEP TEN
Add the plantain, pear, apple and peach, stirring gently to combine, and cook for about 2 minutes. Add the cumin and cloves and mix well.
Place the cinnamon stick in the center of the pan, cover, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 8 to 10 minutes.
STEP ELEVEN
Uncover and add the raisins, almonds, pine nuts and olives. Stir well and taste, adding more salt if needed. Remove from the heat.
The filling can be prepared up to 2 days ahead. Let cool, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
STEP TWELVE
To make the walnut sauce, combine the walnuts or pecans, heavy cream, milk, confectioners’ sugar, salt and white pepper in a blender and blend until smooth.
The sauce can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Bring it to room temperature before using.
STEP THIRTEEN
Up to 2 hours before serving, stir the sherry into the walnut sauce. Add more to taste if desired, without allowing the alcohol flavor to overpower the sauce. If the sauce has thickened in the refrigerator, thin it with a little additional milk.
STEP FOURTEEN
Arrange the prepared poblanos on a serving platter. Fill each chile with about ½ cup of the meat mixture and gently close the sides around the filling.
STEP FIFTEEN
Generously spoon the walnut or pecan sauce over the stuffed chiles, covering them completely. Sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds and chopped parsley and serve.
Note: Some cooks batter and fry the stuffed chiles before adding the sauce. This version leaves them unbattered.
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