From century-old pintxo bars to modern Basque grill houses, this is your essential guide to where to eat in Bilbao, Spain

Near San Mamés, Cork has become one of Bilbao’s most compelling addresses for wine by the glass, thoughtful pintxos and classic Basque dishes served in a bar that still feels personal.

Very few things in Bilbao are as they used to be. Some old bars, some ancient traditions, a chunk of a medieval wall, a handful of simple dishes. What has held strongest over generations is the intense connection Bilbainos feel to their Basque identity and passion for eating and sharing food with others. The image of local cuadrillas – groups of friends of all ages – eating pintxos and laughing over a glass of txakolí or cider is a daily constant. Bilbao is a phoenix of urban renewal, rising from a period of industrial decline to become a center of modern Basque cuisine that incorporates global influences with contemporary culinary quirks.