Though the old cosmopolitans who populated the belle époque apartment buildings of Istanbul’s “European Quarter” have largely been replaced by a vibrant blend of rural Anatolians and global bohemians, hidden traces of their unique cultures remain, creating a singular dining culture – at once rough and refined. And as the neighborhood continues changing at a rapid pace, its importance as a center of culture and nightlife – read eating and drinking – remains unchanged since Ottoman times. On this tour, we aim to unravel the delicious mysteries that make Beyoğlu one of Istanbul's most enchanting neighborhoods. We’ll begin like so many nights out do, by fortifying ourselves at small neighborhood spots with a couple courses of classic homestyle cooking – vegetables stewed in olive oil, hand-folded manti dumplings – as if we were at mom’s table. Then we hit the streets and begin a long snacking stroll through some of Beyoğlu’s greatest informal eateries, from a one-pot master serving Black Sea-style buttery rice and creamy white beans to a hole-in-the-wall serving şalgam, a one-of-a-kind drink made out of fermented purple carrots. Winding our way through the district’s atmospheric side streets, we’ll see the range of nightlife in Beyoğlu, passing rock bars, meyhanes and nargile salons. We will settle in at a neighborhood ocakbaşı, a taverna specializing in grilled meats, for a taste of lamb kebab fresh off the skewer and a sip of raki, the aniseed-scented Turkish tipple of choice. Onward toward the neighborhood’s fish market, where traditional food shops are at night joined by small restaurants filled with diners and sometimes musicians. Our destination is a fourth-generation sweets shop where, when in season, people line up for a taste of their famous ayva tatlisi, candied quince topped with heavenly kaymak. Our evening will end (or is it just beginning?) at a viewpoint overlooking the neighborhood below with a final toast to our evening together and the raucous spirit of Beyoğlu.
Read More
