Although, thanks to its once flourishing silver and gold mines, the north-central Mexican state of Zacatecas was an economic powerhouse during the colonial period and the early years of the Mexican republic, its cuisine is not as well known in Mexico City as that of states such as Oaxaca and Michoacán. But when we headed this past New Year’s to the state’s eponymous capital city, we were blown away by its food, as well as its history and beautiful colonial architecture.
Zacatecas played a significant role in Mexico’s economy during the colonial period: When the Spanish conquistadors learned about the region’s rich mineral deposits in the mid-16th century, they started mining operations immediately. In 1585, the city that had grown from the mining settlement was recognized by the Spanish crown and called the “Muy Noble y Leal Ciudad de Nuestra Señora de Zacatecas.” The richness of its mines made it the second-most important city in the Spanish colonies, after Mexico City, and one of the most powerful in the Western Hemisphere. During the Mexican Revolution, Zacatecas was the site of a decisive and bloody battle that changed the course of Mexican history and that Zacatecanos still talk proudly about today. After Mexican independence, the region continued to produce most of the silver and gold for the newborn republic.
When it comes to food, Zacatecas is most known for its asado de boda, a regional mole with an orangey flavor, and its birria de chivo (goat stew). The state also has its own take on classic Mexican foods such as enchiladas, gorditas and tortas. In between museum visits and walking up and down the town’s narrow cobblestone streets, we tried out various eateries that had been recommended to us by locals. Here we include some of our favorites.
Birrieria Don Polo
It’s no surprise that birria is popular in Zacatecas: To the south, Zacatecas borders the state of Jalisco, considered the birthplace of this delicious stew. Birrieria Don Polo, inside the Mercado Arroyo de la Plata, is a hidden jewel in the back of the market. They serve the birria goat meat as a stew in a bowl accompanied by tortillas, or in tacos with the meat drained. Both ways are delicious. Tasting the local birria was the perfect start to our Zacatecas adventure.
Gorditas Doña Lupe
Another dish that we were told we must try in Zacatecas was gorditas – small, round cornmeal patties stuffed with fillings. There are several gorditas eateries in town, but the best, according to our sources, was out of the historic center area. Located about a 10-minute walk from the center of Zacatecas along sometimes very steep streets, Gorditas Doña Lupe is a hole-in-the-wall place that didn’t impress us at first. But when our gorditas arrived, we realized it had been worth the trek. Unlike gorditas in Mexico City, Zacatecas gorditas are smaller in radius and are made with thinner corn patties; they are also stuffed with many different ingredients. Our favorites were the asado de boda – the typical Zacatecas mole with a touch of orange – as well as the beans with cheese, chicharrón (pork skin) and beef tongue. This establishment has been in business since 1973 and the granddaughter of the founder still makes the gorditas by hand on a comal (Mexican griddle) over a wood fire.
Tortas Malpaso
Malpaso is a small town not far from the city of Zacatecas. Several years ago, a ranch in the area started making chorizo. Its quality was so remarkable that it soon became famous. They also sold tortas (a type of Mexican sandwich) filled with their chorizo. The bread for these tortas is a small and semisweet soft bun that holds three of the small chorizo pieces. People from all over the state came to buy the chorizo and eat the tortas. Nowadays, a small business sells the same tortas made with the chorizo from that community right across from the famous Fuente de los Conquistadores (“Fountain of the Conquistadors”) in the center of Zacatecas. You can also buy the chorizo by the hundred – 100 small pieces of the sausage weigh around 1 kilo. This is a great establishment to grab a quick and delicious bite in between museums or tourist activities in the city.
Acropolis
It is said that Acropolis is the first café that opened in Zacatecas. Founded in 1938 by Said Saman Farah, a Syrian immigrant, it started just as a café, but over time they added items to their menu. Despite the 
founder’s background, the menu at Acropolis is now typical Mexican food. Breakfast includes a delicious dish called “Huevos Acropolis” that is two fried eggs over corn tortillas, topped with red and green sauce and fresh cheese. The menu also offers enchiladas Zacatecanas, tortillas fried in lard with a red sauce and pork, lettuce and cream. Part of the fun of eating here is soaking up the old-fashioned ambiance and admiring the hundreds of paintings donated by important artists or acquired by the Saman family, which still owns the restaurant. Acropolis is located right in front of the main cathedral in Zacatecas.
We didn’t miss the chance to have a few drinks in two of Zacatecas’s most unique venues. The first was Bar Botarel, inside the Hotel Quinta Real. Constructed around an abandoned bullring from the 17th century, the hotel is one of the most unusual in the world. The bar itself is located in the bullring’s former holding pens, with a magnificent view of what was once the ring. The prices are not bad for a luxury hotel.
The second venue was Cantina Las Quince Letras, a 100-year-old cantina that is a favorite stop for locals and tourists alike. This combination cantina and art gallery attracts visitors from around the world, but it maintains a small-town atmosphere that makes it a pleasant place to drink with friends.
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