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Among the regions of Mexico that are best known for their culinary wealth, Puebla is near the top. Approximately 100 kilometers east of Mexico City, Puebla is the birthplace of chiles en nogada, mole poblano (probably the most recognized Mexican mole worldwide) and cemitas, a knockout sandwich made with the bread of the same name.

Puebla city, the state capital, was founded in 1531. Its historic center is one of the most beautiful and best preserved in Mexico – so much so that UNESCO included it in the World Heritage List in 1987. Millions of visitors flock there annually from all over the world.

The rich culinary scene of the city of Puebla includes restaurants, markets and street food stalls. On our last visit we decided to eat at el Mercado de Sabores Poblanos, a venue whose whole purpose is to bring together the best food Puebla has to offer under one roof. Located just a few blocks from Puebla’s Zócalo, the mercado is invitingly airy and open, clean and bright. Diners can order directly from the various food vendors and take their orders to any table in the market. Alternatively, a persuasive waiter can direct them to a table close to the establishment that he represents and bring them any item from that eatery’s menu.

On our visit, we were in the mood for cemitas. Cemitas are to Puebla what tortas are to Mexico City. The eggy, sesame seed-studded bread is filled with avocado, chipotle or pickled chile serrano, onion, quesillo (string cheese), papalo (summer cilantro, a pungent flavored herb that gives the cemita its unique flavor) and a choice of meat: ham, chicken, milanesa, pork leg in adobo, head cheese or barbacoa. Even though there are several cemitas vendors in the market, we were told that Super Cemitas Alex (booths 50 and 51) served some of the best, and having visited that stall, we completely agree.

Other dishes that can be found at the market are mole poblano (the traditional sweet-and-spicy mole that most people outside of Mexico know), mole de olla (a beef and vegetable broth spiced with pasilla pepper), pipianes (moles made with pumpkin seeds), chiles en nogada in season, molotes (something like fried quesadillas), pelonas (round corn patties filled with meat, cheese, sour cream and lettuce), chalupas (fried tortillas served in layers and topped with meat and green and red salsa) and a large variety of guisados in the cocinas. You can also find typical bread and poblano sweets, such as camotes, borrachitos, tortitas de santa clara, muéganos, cocadas, etc.

Clearly, with such a staggering array of delicious eating opportunities available, this market deserves repeated visits. It’s the perfect entry point for getting acquainted with all that Puebla has to offer, the kind of food court we wholeheartedly approve of.

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PJ Rountree

Published on March 10, 2015

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