Palermo

Ciccio Passami l’Olio: Palermo’s Neighborhood Pizzeria

“I'm a big pizza eater,” Francesco “Ciccio” Leone confesses. “But what I like most is being together with friends, conviviality.” The broad-shouldered Palermo native, 50, greets everyone who enters his establishment with a welcoming smile. It was during a dinner party held at his home that he came up with the idea for the name of his pizzeria. “The name came about by chance,” he recalls. “My friends would come to my house to eat, they would say, ‘Ciccio, pass me this; Ciccio, pass me that,’ and so I thought of calling the pizzeria Ciccio Passami l’Olio, which means ‘Ciccio, pass me the oil.’”

Palermo

Osteria Mangia e Bevi: To Nonna’s Kitchen We Go

Imagine you are Marcel Proust at the beginning of his novel In Search of Lost Time, or the feared food critic Anton Ego in Ratatouille, the Pixar masterpiece that won the 2008 Oscars for Best Animated Film. In the exact moment you taste a madeleine dipped in tea or a forkful of ratatouille, your palate is activated you are catapulted back in time, to that first Sunday morning you tried the dessert or to that time when, after falling off your bike, the dinner your mother prepared you somehow seemed to make everything better. It is this emotion, this involuntary memory flashback, that cousins Nico Virga and Angelo Fascetta had in mind when they opened their restaurant. Located on Via Cavalieri di Malta, behind the Church of San Domenico – known as the Pantheon of Sicilians – Osteria Mangia e Bevi is a charming eatery that offers not only simple home cooking from Palermo, but also a true taste of grandma's cooking. Grandma Antonietta’s, more specifically.

Palermo

Al Fresco: A Fresh Start

Upon entering Al Fresco in the Ballarò neighborhood, we are struck by both the kind welcome and the special location – the restaurant is set in a garden enclosed within the walls of Casa San Francesco, a former seventeenth-century convent, lit by strings of lights dangling between plants and saplings. There is an immediate sense of openness, freedom and freshness. This is no coincidence: while “al fresco” in Italian can refer to the chill of being out in the open air, it is also an expression used to mean “life in prison.” The double meaning makes sense in this case – despite its first impression as a regular eatery, perhaps the most special feature of Al Fresco is that working in the kitchen and in the dining room are former inmates who have joined the team following their release from prison.

Palermo

La Delizia: Geniuses of Gelato

When we meet Mr. Giovanni Scalici, owner of the gelato shop La Delizia, he explains the formula for his success in one word: "Simplicity." We are in Sferracavallo, a seaside suburb of Palermo located between the mountains and a beautiful gulf. Here the coast is filled with dozens of seafood restaurants, but if you venture slightly off the promenade you will find this gem of a gelateria on Via Dammuso.

Palermo

Altri Tempi: Trattoria Time Machine

In Palermo, we don’t need a time machine to travel to the past. Stepping into Trattoria Altri Tempi, it’s possible to be transported by the nostalgia of classic flavors from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a time when Sicilian cuisine still retained its distinct identity, before the influence of other regional Italian cuisines and, later, globalization began to shape the local culinary culture. This small restaurant, in business for 29 years, is a cornerstone of authentic Sicilian tradition, a place where time seems to have stood still. Altri Tempi indeed translates to "other times." The atmosphere is warm and intimate, its walls adorned with old photos, handwritten notes, and paintings depicting still lifes. Copper pots, terracotta vases, and other unused objects complete the decoration, contributing to the feel of an old-fashioned tavern. At the entrance, a giant mortadella awaits to be sliced and tasted.

Palermo

Trattoria Il Delfino: Sicilian Seafood Haven

For over fifty years, the historic restaurant Trattoria Il Delfino has been synonymous with tradition and quality in the heart of Sferracavallo, a small fishing village on the outskirts of Palermo. Here, the scent of the sea blends with the aromas of Sicilian cuisine, fresh fish is the undisputed star, and the philosophy of cooking has remained unchanged over time. At the helm of this renowned trattoria is Nino Billeci, who, together with his family, carries on a legacy that began in the 1970s. The restaurant’s story dates back to a time when fish was considered the food of the poor, and meat was preferred by those who could afford it. But over time habits changed, and Il Delfino became a touchstone for those seeking an authentic seafood experience.

Palermo

Ballarak: Brewed in Palermo

On warm afternoons, the Piazza Magione lawn fills up with young people, groups of friends with guitars, and people of all ages enjoying the outdoors while sipping excellent craft beer – the first brewed in Palermo. This scene is possible thanks to Ballarak, a craft brewery in the heart of Piazza Magione that has managed to transform itself into a true landmark for beer lovers. Its story began in 2013, during a homebrewers' competition in Messina, where four beer enthusiasts met and formed a bond based on their common passion.

Palermo

Ferro di Cavallo: Meet You at the Horseshoe

Tall flames and hot oil, stacked plates and searing pans, shouting and laughter: the kitchen of this trattoria may look chaotic, but it is a perfectly organized and harmonious chaos that well represents Palermo's vibrancy – the same energy that can be found in one of the old town markets or in city traffic. The same liveliness extends to the dining room, where a jovial and festive atmosphere is established among customers, waiters, and the restaurant’s owners. Waiters sweep in and out each time the cooks ring the bell, bringing traditional Palermo dishes to the tables.

Palermo

Best Bites 2024: Palermo

Palermo is in the midst of a gastronomic evolution mirroring its own colorful heritage. Ancient Greek influences, Arab spices, Norman opulence, and Spanish traditions have long made Sicily’s largest city a chaotic mix of cultures. In recent years, this blend has been elevated by a new wave of chefs and restaurateurs who reinterpret tradition while staying true to the essence of the island. While classic trattorias and osterias that have served generations remain bastions of tradition, a younger generation of innovators is emerging, making 2024 a year of fun eating in Palermo.

Palermo

La Casa del Brodo dal Dottore: Doctor’s Orders

Along Via Vittorio Emanuele, one of the two thoroughfares that, together with Via Maqueda, bisects Palermo's old center to form its four historic districts, a small sign for a trattoria stands out on the corner of a building. La Casa del Brodo dal Dottore has been open here since 1890, making it the oldest eatery in Palermo and one of the longest-lived in southern Italy. La Casa del Brodo Dal Dottore translates literally to “The House of Broth From the Doctor,” because the specialty of the house is precisely meat broth and related boiled meat. For the first hundred years of operation, the establishment served nothing but broth: in the kitchen of the modest two-room eatery, cooks stirred broth in large pots atop cast-iron wood burning stoves. Customers would sit at a small table where they were served broth, boiled meat, tortellini or pasta in broth.

Palermo

Trattoria U Zu Caliddu: Made in the Mountains

We’re surrounded by nothing but fresh air and trees as we head into the mountains overlooking Palermo. After a short and scenic drive up the mountain road, around the bend, we spot our destination – Trattoria U Zu Caliddu, a local institution with over eighty years of history. Located in the mountain hamlet of Piano dell'Occhio in Torretta, on the outskirts of Palermo, the restaurant was named after its founder Calogero Bonello, who everyone knew by the nickname Caliddu Aciedda (“Charlie Bird”).

Palermo

El Bocadillo: Street Food Philosopher

Venture inside the Ballarò market – a lively and historic city market in Palermo’s Albergheria district – and you will find yourself catapulted into a sensory experience: the colors of the fruits and vegetables, the smoke from the grills clouding the alleys, the smell of spices mingling with the smell of survival. And then the voices: they all shout here. Or rather: they “abbannìano.” “Abbanniari” is the ancient custom of Palermo street vendors to sing out their goods to attract customers’ attention. Derived from the times and from a world in which marketing studies and advertising techniques had not yet arrived, in which even noticeable signage was a quantum leap that not all merchants could afford, the abbanniata was the democratic and free tool available to street vendors, because all they needed was their own voice.

Palermo

FUD: American Food, Sicilian Style

It may seem absurd to tell the story of Sicilian gastronomic culture through typical American fast food favorites, but that is just part of the culinary richness of this island. This is the concept at FUD: Bottega Sicula, a restaurant that offers the likes of hamburgers, hot dogs, burritos, and fries, all with a distinctive Sicilian touch. From the local ingredients to the clever marketing, everything at FUD is a game of names and flavors. The idea was born in 2012, the brainchild of 47-year-old restaurateur Andrea Graziano. Andrea, originally from Catania, shares that he has always had a passion for cooking: after graduating, he worked for two years in England as a chef, a fate common to many Sicilians.

Palermo

Nni Franco U Vastiddaru: The God of Spleen

Walk around Piazza Marina and you will come across several city monuments and historical sites. You’ll be enchanted by Palazzo Steri, which today houses the university rectory but until a few centuries ago was home to the infamous Inquisition Tribunal. You will also find the place where the famous New York policeman of Italian origin, Joe Petrosino, who came to Palermo to investigate the Sicilian mafia, was murdered in the early 20th century. At the center of the square, in Villa Garibaldi, designed by the famous architect Basile and dedicated to the leader of the Unification of Italy, stands the largest Ficus tree in Europe: a true natural monument that unloads the weight of its prominence on branches that end up expanding its roots by breaking their way through centuries-old sidewalks.

Palermo

Pasticceria Costa: The Sweet Freedom of Choice

The bright refrigerator display case illuminates a long line of pastries filled with cream pastry and topped with fruit, cannoli filled with ricotta, chocolate and fruit cakes, cassatas and almond cookies. "Sicilian pastries are unique in the world," says Riccardo Costa proudly. Alongside his father and sons, Riccardo runs the historic Pasticceria Costa, a true Palermo institution that opened its doors in 1960, a classic bar and pastry shop where you will find Sicilian confectionery excellence. "It all began with my father, Antonino," says Riccardo. Flash back to the post-war years; 1946, to be precise. Antonino Costa was only eight years old and to escape a destiny of hunger and poverty in a city still destroyed by bombs, he began to work as an apprentice, first in a bakery and then in a pastry shop. At the age of eighteen, Antonino Costa opened his own confectionery workshop to supply the various bars in the area, but it was in 1960 that he opened the historic pastry shop that bears his name, on Gabriele D'Annunzio Street.

Palermo

Da Andrea: Guardian of a Slippery Tradition

Descend the steps of Discesa del Caracciolo, leaving Via Roma behind, and you will find yourself in the heart of Palermo’s old Vucciria market, a micro-universe unto itself in which nostalgia hovers in the air and in the eyes of the locals. Typical Sicilian fatalism translates into the saying: “When the balàte of the Vucciria dry out.” The balàte are the typical stones that make up the floor on which the market stands: legend has it that – precisely because of the presence of merchants of all kinds who wash their workbenches at the end of each day – the floor of the Vucciria never fully dries.

Palermo

Best Bites 2023: Palermo

After this 2023’s surge of tourists across Sicily (fueled, in many ways, by the international success of locally shot series like White Lotus and upcoming Gattopardo), the New Year promises to be a busy one, as more curious travelers are drawn by the stunning landscapes, impressive architecture, and, of course, the delectable cuisine. While some of Palermo’s streets have transformed into tourist hubs with souvenir shops and eateries, it can be tricky to pick out the most authentic spots. However, within the vast expanse of the city, a little exploration and attention can lead to high-quality, tranquil places that truly honor Sicilian food and ingredients, even on the busiest streets.

Palermo

Santa Lucia Day: Celebrating All Things Arancina in Palermo

It’s hard to choose among all of Sicily’s justifiably famous foods, but if we had to pick one as the most the most iconic and beloved it would have to be arancine. These small rice balls, filled with enticing ingredients, coated in a crispy breading and deep fried, are a true culinary masterpiece that embodies the passion and creativity of Sicilian cuisine. Traditionally, arancine were prepared in two flavors: meat and “butter.” Meat arancine are stuffed with meat sauce and peas. Butter arancine, despite the name, are actually filled with mozzarella cheese, cooked ham and béchamel sauce. Over the years, however, local rosticceria – fry shops selling the treat – have added different variations: today, you can find spots offering arancine stuffed with everything from sausage to swordfish, spinach, “alla norma” (with fried eggplant and tomato sauce) and even Nutella – a far cry from the historic roots of this famous dish.

Palermo

Moltivolti: Kitchen Without Borders

At Moltivolti, a restaurant and coworking space located in the Ballarò district of Palermo, a large wooden panel on which a map of the earth is drawn hangs on the wall. Lines of red thread spread out from each continent, connected to other countries, other cities, other coasts. The threads, hundreds of them, form a tangle, representing human migrations from one part of the planet to another, and the dreams of people who have crossed seas and borders. Above this map read the words: "My land is where my feet stand." This is the Moltivolti motto. The idea was born in 2014 on a beach in Senegal when a group of friends thought of opening a place in Palermo that was both a restaurant and a coworking space – a place that could welcome anyone from anywhere in the world.

Palermo

Palermo: The State of the Stomach

As the sun dawns over the city of Palermo, warming the narrow streets still dampened by the night, merchants in the old quarter set up stands with their products: plentiful fruits, vegetables, meat and fish await the Palermitans who prefer to do their shopping here rather than in supermarkets illuminated by cold neon lights. At the Vucciria, one of the city's historic markets, Andrea Vattiato is setting up the fish counter where he has worked for half a century. He displays on ice a selection of the best fish the Mediterranean Sea has to offer, and with the help of a hose he wets the fish.