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If Portugal had to choose a spirit animal, that creature would surely be the sardine. The humble little fish and the culture surrounding it – from sea to can or grill to table – are an integral part of Portuguese life and identity. Nowhere is this truer than in Matosinhos, the waterside town that serves as the harbor of Porto and has long been defined by its relationship to the sea and the fishing industry. To refer to Matosinhos as “Sardine City” is not a stretch. For part of the 20th century, this small municipality – essentially a suburb of Porto – was the largest sardine fishing port in the world and home to 54 canneries working around the clock. While only three remain open, Matosinhos is still deep in the fishing business and even seeing a revival. Thanks to its access to some of the best fish and seafood to be had worldwide, the town is packed with restaurants, making for one of the liveliest and rewarding dining scenes in Portugal. And with tinned fish going from gathering dust on supermarket shelves to viral internet sensation, Matosinhos’s most famous product is in the spotlight once again. On this full day tour, we’ll use the local connection to the sea – past, present, and future – as the backdrop for exploring a unique town whose motto seems to be “Yes, we (still) can.” We’ll begin our day as the locals do, with coffee and a sweet breakfast pastry at an old-school bakery, before making our way to the boisterous local fish auction, where we’ll be competing for space with early birds looking for a deal and seagulls looking for a steal. After taking a peek at some of the fishing boats moored in the harbor, we’ll stop into one of the living links to Matosinhos’s golden past, the workshop of craftsmen devoted to the art of mending sardine nets. Continuing through town, we’ll sit down with local workers at a neighborhood tasca for a fortifying late breakfast of salt cod fritters paired with a sparking vinho verde, and then get a taste of what’s new in Matosinhos by visiting a bakery where a former architect is now turning out spectacular sourdough breads using strictly Portuguese ingredients. Our next stop is one of Matosinhos’s most important landmarks, its municipal market, which along with its aisles of impeccably fresh fish and local produce, is also known for its stunning modernist architecture. Having worked our way through the market, the time has come for, what else, a taste of grilled fish. We’ll do this at a tiny restaurant run by a former stevedore who worked on the local docks, where we’ll dine on the seasonal catch of the day accompanied by boiled potatoes and a salad – a classic Matosinhos harborside lunch. For a sweet note, we’ll next visit a beloved local pastry shop for a taste of Jesuita, an exceptionally crunchy traditional local sweet made of custard-filled puff pastry. We’ll end our day, appropriately, with an epic tour and tasting at one of the last remaining canneries in town – open since 1920 – where the thrilling nautical tale of Matosinhos continues to be written.
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