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State of the Stomach: Thessaloniki Featured Image

In Thessaloniki, food is the city’s most vivid expression of history. Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Sephardic Jewish and refugee influences all remain on the table, shaping a dining culture built on long meals, strong local loyalties and a deep sense of continuity.

CB on the Road

Like so many other Greek specialties, bougatsa has a long history, in this case one that stretches all the way back to Byzantine times. Bougatsa is mainly a breakfast pie with a phyllo pastry made of flour, softened butter and oil that requires a great deal of skill to prepare. This pie is made and enjoyed all around Greece, but particularly famous are those made in northern Greece, especially in Thessaloniki and Serres. Turkish börek is a close relation, and similar pies are traditional to many eastern Balkan countries that were formally part of the Ottoman Empire. The tradition of bougatsa making really took off around Greece in the early 1920s with the arrival of the Greek refugees from Asia Minor and Cappadocia.

Bouyiourdi Recipe: Baked Feta with Tomatoes and Peppers Featured Image

A staple of Thessaloniki meze culture, bouyiourdi is a quick baked dish of feta, tomatoes and peppers, served hot and shared with bread at tavernas and home tables alike.

Market Watch: Shopping Through Thessaloniki’s Past and Present Featured Image

From the Bezesteni and Bit Bazaar to Kapani Market and Athonos Square, Carolina Doriti traces the commercial life of Thessaloniki through the markets, delis and specialty shops that connect the city’s past to its everyday food culture.

Morning, Noon, Night: Carolina Doriti’s Thessaloniki Featured Image

Chef, cookbook author and longtime Culinary Backstreets guide Carolina Doriti shares her ideal day of eating in Thessaloniki, from koulouri and Greek coffee to soutzoukakia, seafood meze and dessert stops that show off the city’s sweet tooth.

Diagonios is a classic spot for soutzoukakia, Thessaloniki, photo by Katherine Whittaker

In Thessaloniki, food is the clearest expression of the city’s history. From refugee-rooted soutzoukakia and late-night patsas to bougatsa, trigona and old-school seafood, these are the essentials that define how the city eats.

Manchu: More Than Convenient Featured Image

A purple corner store beneath the Claiborne overpass, Manchu feeds New Orleans far beyond convenience. Famous for its crackly fried chicken, shrimp fried rice, and yaka mein, the Vietnamese-owned staple sits at the crossroads of Tremé and the Seventh Ward, where Asian-Creole cooking, neighborhood ritual, and community care come together, day after day.

Where to Eat Meze in Thessaloniki: 7 Mezedopoleia to Know Featured Image

One of the most popular kinds of restaurants in Greece is the mezedopoleio, which, as the name indicates, specializes in traditional local meze dishes (washed down with generous amounts of ouzo or other alcoholic drinks). Back in the day, mezedopoleia were the neighborhood’s meeting points. Men gathered there most of the day to drink, have a bite, talk politics and play backgammon, chess or cards. Today, the mezedopoleio remains a simple and very affordable place to eat, sometimes operating as a kafenio (cafeteria), and often offering traditional live music to add to the experience. Among Greek cities Thessaloniki is particularly famous for its numerous and excellent mezedopoleia, which makes it very difficult to choose just a few.

Círculo del Sureste: From Street Stand to Neighborhood Fixture Featured Image

A long-running Yucatecan cantina in Colonia Járez, Circulo del Sureste, has built its reputation on cochinita pibil, sopa de lima, and a menu that has barely changed in decades.

Quick Hits: Where to Eat, Drink, and Explore in Paris Featured Image

A quick guide to eating and drinking across Paris, from old-school bistros and neighborhood markets to cocktail bars, standout dishes and emerging dining neighborhoods.

Cork: A Bilbao Bar for Wine and Basque Cooking Featured Image

Near San Mamés, Cork has become one of Bilbao’s most compelling addresses for wine by the glass, thoughtful pintxos and classic Basque dishes served in a bar that still feels personal.

Making lazarakia, photo by Katherine Whittaker

In Greece, Easter is not just a holiday; it is a celebration of life, faith, and hope – a tradition that unites families and communities in ways that few other occasions can. It is a time of reflection, renewal, and festivity, where centuries-old customs are lovingly upheld. The journey to this sacred day reaches its final peak on Lazarus Saturday, which marks the start of the most important week in the Greek Christian calendar – Holy Week. This day, a week before Easter, holds both religious and cultural significance, setting the stage for the symbolic meaning and importance of each day of this Holy Week, culminating in Easter itself. Lazarus Saturday is also the day that the baking begins in homes across Greece.

Madrid: State of the Stomach Featured Image

Madrid’s dining scene is shifting fast, but the city’s old-school bars are not disappearing without a fight. From classic tabernas to a new generation of restaurants, this is how Madrid eats now.

Paula Casado tells us her favorite way to spend a perfect day in Madrid, photo courtesy of Paula Casado

Chef and influencer Paula Casado shares her favorite spots for a perfect day of eating and drinking in Madrid, from a beloved La Latina bakery to a Uruguayan steakhouse, a creative dinner spot, and the city's best bars for vermut and late-night drinks.

Street Smarts: Calle Santa Isabel Featured Image

A tapas crawl through Calle Santa Isabel, one of the best streets for local eats in Madrid – from Antón Martín Market to classic taverns serving bocadillo de calamares and croquetas.

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