Guadalajara, the capital of the state of Jalisco, is beloved as the birthplace of such Mexican icons as tequila and mariachi music. The city is a treat for the senses, a place that stokes the desire to see, smell, and taste everything it has to offer. As for the latter, it could take a lifetime – or a great many visits – to work your way through the delicious and varied specialties found here. Founded in Western Mexico in 1542 as a hub for regional trade, Guadalajara became a melting pot of culinary influences – and there’s a range of different kinds of places to discover them all.

Editor’s note: In the latest installment of our recurring First Stop feature, we asked chef Dylan Jones about his favorite spot in Bangkok. Dylan opened Bangkok restaurant Bo.lan in 2009 with his partner, chef Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava. Bo.lan has become a Bangkok institution, receiving critical acclaim for its stance on sustainable practices while at the same time building an intricate web of connections through their suppliers, farmers, and local artisans. Dylan has completely immersed himself in his adopted homeland, speaking the language fluently and together with Bo, has amassed a unique collection of antique Thai recipes which they bring to life through their restaurants and various side projects.

Among the small streets and throughout the hidden corners of San Sebastian, young entrepreneurs sow courageous projects that are reshaping how wine is enjoyed in this city. Among them is José Vergarajáuregui, who opened Bodega Klandestina in 2022 in an abandoned car mechanic’s garage nestled in the folds of the Gros neighborhood. In a region tightly bound by tradition, he felt inspired to pave the way for new trends, tired as he was of seeing the same kind of wines served in most of the bars in town.

Right in the heart of Istanbul's historic Sirkeci quarter are an equal number of tourist traps and gems. At the former, overly eager employees shove menus in your face and pressure you to sit down for an average, overpriced döner kebab on a crowded corner. The latter are the exact opposite; tucked away on ground floors in unlikely alleys, hidden in plain view. Just beneath the looming Deutsche Orientbank – a masterwork built over a century ago and crowned with a copper dome that long ago took on a turquoise hue – is Kavurmacı Goze, a small, elegantly designed restaurant with only one thing on the menu: kavurma (braised beef).

Monty sits just a couple of blocks from the Guggenheim Museum, yet it remains largely unknown to the international public. Nestled on a lively corner of Bilbao’s Ensanche district, it’s one of those bars that encapsulates the city’s character: traditional yet open to change, classic in its presentation, and deeply serious when it comes to food and drink. The area surrounding Monty has become a trendy hotspot for taverns, restaurants, and cocktail bars, home to some of the most daring culinary ventures in the local scene. Within just a few blocks, you can find haute cuisine establishments, seafood sanctuaries, international kitchens or aspirational bistros. Most of these places have emerged around the past decade, fueled by the city’s growing tourism sector.

For a city whose natural beauty is what often sweeps visitors off their feet, Rio’s historical gems often look a little like urban ugly ducklings next to the bikini crowds and chic bars on sandy Ipanema beach. That’s a shame, because Rio Antigo has a great story to tell. Old Rio runs along the Guanabara Bay rather than the open Atlantic, and it was the former that gave the city its name – River of January – when Portuguese explorers came upon it in the first month of 1502.

New Orleans is full of surprises, but the beauty of Domilise’s is that it’s exactly what you’d expect from a po’boy joint. Located uptown on Annunciation Street, the yellow house on the corner has been serving up food for the neighborhood along the Mississippi Riverbend for over a hundred years. We watch as customers line up below the hand-painted wood sign to get a taste of straightforward sustenance. There are no shortcuts here: tasty “debris” – the tender bits of meat that fall off a roast beef – are cooked for hours into gravy before Mary Lou and her team generously ladle it atop crisp loaves of Leidenheimer (a local brand of French bread that’s been around even longer than Domilise’s).

Two-and-a-half kilometers of curves and narrow alleys at 150 meters above sea level. Breathtaking views overlooking the sea. A coast dominated by the blue of the sky and dotted with arabesque domes. All around is the unmistakable perfume of the sfusato amalfitano – the Amalfi lemon.

Tbilisi’s self-proclaimed first Chinese restaurant opened in 1998, with a competitor following a few years later. Both restaurants remained the only gastronomic reference for local Georgians seeking East Asian flavors for decades. The food, while decent at both establishments, seemed to model the style originally concocted by early Chinese immigrants to the US, with cornstarch and oyster sauce-heavy, sweet-and-sour sauces dominating the menu, and spice levels adapted to the sensitive western palate. The opening of Xinjian Sasadilo in 2018 marked a change, as it was one of the first local eateries in Tbilisi to serve authentic western Chinese dishes, with their signature hand pulled Uighur noodles and dry chili and star anise-infused spicy chicken dapanji.

There’s something different about Athens as day turns into night. As the sun begins to set behind the Acropolis, the city exhales. Locals fill the streets, the clink of glasses echoes from crowded courtyards, and the scent of grilled meats and summer herbs floats through the warm night air. This is when Athens truly shines, when its spirit spills out of kitchens and kafeneia, and the pace of the day gives way to the pleasure of the table. And there is perhaps no better neighborhood to fall in love with Athens at twilight than the historic Plaka neighborhood.

Nestled between Europe’s most volatile volcano, Mount Vesuvius, and the sparkling blue waters of the Mediterranean, Naples is a city of vivid beauty and intense street life, where a rich and deeply layered history is matched only by the local – and now world-famous – cuisine. This is a city of multitudes, and one which will stimulate all your senses. On this six-day, five-night culinary adventure in and around the city of Naples, we’ll be exploring the cuisine and culture of this fascinating city, from the richly ornate to the rough and ready. We’ll use the city’s famous cooking as a window into daily life and culture, meeting culinary artisans who keep the city fed and visiting producers of specialty products.

Rio de Janeiro’s food scene, much like the city itself, operates on its own distinct rhythm – a samba of deep-rooted traditions, neighborhood loyalties, and an ever-present informality that masks the seriousness with which cariocas approach their food. After nearly a decade, we at Culinary Backstreets have resumed our in-depth coverage and guided walks on just where to eat in Rio. Today, we’ve rounded up our essential spots in this forever dance party of a city. For us, an "essential" is not about popularity, trends, or haute cuisine. These are places embedded in the city’s daily life or keepers of specific culinary practices. Where to eat in Rio comes down to places with heart: community gathering spots or businesses that tells a larger story about Rio’s history and its people.

Lavash is so integral to Armenian life that UNESCO placed it on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014. Armenians roll the thin flatbread into wraps or dunk it in dips like smoky eggplant moutabal. Instead of throwing rice at weddings, they drape the supple flatbread over newlyweds’ shoulders for good luck. More than mere food, UNESCO champions lavash for its collective baking process that strengthens community and family ties. This is exactly what a new Armenian boulangerie is doing in Marseille.

The typical after-beach taverna in Greece almost always focuses on fish. You want to sit seaside, still a little salty from your swim, watching the last rays of the day’s sunshine drip into the sea. It’s certainly a beautiful image, and very typically Greek. Most of the time, a day trip to the beach does end this way, particularly for Athenians when they’re looking for an escape from the sticky heat of the city center. Trigono, a restaurant in the town of Kalyvia, makes the case for ditching post-dip fish in favor of something else: grilled meat. Tomahawk steaks, lamb ribs, long spicy sausages, even offal cuts that you wouldn’t expect to see outside of major Greek holidays.

Golden Deli may be best known as one of Los Angeles’s pioneering Vietnamese restaurants, but the San Gabriel establishment now has an unexpected new sideline – thanks to its viral cookies, the brainchild of the owners’ daughter, Thy Do. Named after the restaurant, Golden Deli Cookies’s weekly release often sells out in just minutes. The pop-up bakery has now even partnered with its neighbor, Yama Sushi Marketplace, to sell what have quickly become some of the most sought-after cookies in Los Angeles.