At the edge of Los Angeles’s modern downtown stands a link to the city’s Spanish colonial past. El Pueblo de Los Ángeles was one of the earliest settled areas in what is now L.A. County, and today is home to such attractions as the last standing adobe house, the city’s first firehouse, and, most importantly, one of the oldest family-run restaurants in California, El Rancho Grande. Poised to celebrate 95 years of operation on the area’s historic Olvera Street, this family has grown with the city, preserving and sharing traditional foods since just before this area was designated as a Mexican-style tourist marketplace in 1930.

Birria is among the biggest culinary buzzwords across the U.S. today – only it’s not the goat-based Jalisco recipes that get the attention. birria de chivo, the signature dish of the state. Most people, especially Jaliscans, traditionally think of birria as being made from goat. Hector’s version, tatemada, involves a final roast of birria de chivo in the oven, making the skin charred and crisp. When the hour strikes eight on Saturday morning, Hector Ramirez pulls the wooden handle on a cast-iron lid sealing his self-constructed, propane-fueled, cylindrical oven and unveils his birria tatemada.

Golden Deli may be best known as one of Los Angeles’s pioneering Vietnamese restaurants, but the San Gabriel establishment now has an unexpected new sideline – thanks to its viral cookies, the brainchild of the owners’ daughter, Thy Do. Named after the restaurant, Golden Deli Cookies’s weekly release often sells out in just minutes. The pop-up bakery has now even partnered with its neighbor, Yama Sushi Marketplace, to sell what have quickly become some of the most sought-after cookies in Los Angeles.