Among the small streets and throughout the hidden corners of San Sebastian, young entrepreneurs sow courageous projects that are reshaping how wine is enjoyed in this city. Among them is José Vergarajáuregui, who opened Bodega Klandestina in 2022 in an abandoned car mechanic’s garage nestled in the folds of the Gros neighborhood. In a region tightly bound by tradition, he felt inspired to pave the way for new trends, tired as he was of seeing the same kind of wines served in most of the bars in town.

In the 13th century, San Sebastian was a walled fishing village. While it may no longer look like one, Kofradia – a restaurant and maritime education center that opened in 2020 – is working to preserve fragments of that history. Located near La Kontxa beach, between where San Sebastian’s fishing port and a seaside entrance to the old walled town used to be, the project got its start as an initiative of several local guilds and organizations that work with small fishing boats in the Bay of Biscay. This is where the fish on Kofradia’s menu comes from, reflecting the quality of the catch, the commitment to responsible fishing, and the maintenance of the balance of local biodiversity.

In San Sebastian, talking about food, but above all, about cooking, is the norm. Here, something as small as a gilda is of the utmost importance. To stick anchovies, olives and guindilla peppers on a stick is not enough; together these ingredients must contrast and balance, living up to the gilda’s reputation as one of the city’s most celebrated pintxos. A good gilda comes with a punch of flavor and freshness; an ideal combination of textures and acidity that is eaten in a single bite.