As the temperature soars in Bangkok, it means two things: the arrival of Songkran, the Thai New year in April, and the much-anticipated season of a unique dish known as khao chae. If you’ve never heard of it, you are not alone, as this distinctive dish often flies under the foodie radar, overshadowed by favorites like green curry and pad Thai. Available only for a couple of months each year, khao chae is known for its cooling properties during the hot summer months.

This adored tradition is a visually beautiful dish consisting of delicate grains of rice soaked in a fragrant jasmine ice bath accompanied by a selection of meticulously prepared components. While it may not be universally adored (many Thais seem to have mixed feelings about it), khao chae has experienced a revival in recent years thanks to a younger generation of locals who want to reconnect with their roots. From simple streetside eateries to upscale five-star hotels, this ancient dish has been gaining traction. Yet despite the numerous options, one standout location to savor this summer specialty remains the classic Sanguan Sri, an unpretentious restaurant nestled between towering skyscrapers and luxury hotels.

Khao chae’s history goes back to the Mon people, an ethnic group from Myanmar who integrated into Thai society around the 16th century. The Mon people are believed to have originated from China before migrating and settling throughout Myanmar and eventually Thailand, bringing with them their religion, Theravada Buddhism, and khao chae. They prepared theirs, known as Thingyan rice in Burmese, as offerings to monks and deities during their New Year celebration, Thingyan, which coincides with Songkran.

While khao chae is not originally a Thai dish, it has since become an integral part of Thai culture and history. It is believed that the recipe first made its way to the royal Thai court at Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace in Phetchaburi during the reign of King Rama IV (1804-1868), brought by his consort, Chao Chom Manda Songklin, who was of Mon descent. Legend goes that she introduced khao chae to palace cooks where they later modified the dish, making it fit for royal aristocracy. At that time, rain or river water was collected and stored in terracotta pots for a year to keep the water cool and fresh. Ice was also not common at the time and was considered a luxury, which meant khao chae was exclusively available to the royals.

Translated to “soaked rice,” khao chae is quite a complex dish. It starts with the rice, which is parboiled, then washed many times to rid it of any starch until the water runs clear. It is then steamed, ensuring the rice never clumps or sticks together. The next step is to infuse clean water with freshly picked jasmine flowers, chommanard, or ylang ylang and steep overnight – but no longer than that or the flowery fragrance and taste will be overpowering. Some places will serve the infused water on the side, to be poured into the rice bowl. At Sanguan Sri, for example, the rice comes already submerged in the flower water, with two or three ice cubes on top.

The preparation of the side dishes are just as elaborate. “The original Petchaburi version included three main accompaniments:, look kapi tod, [deep-fried shrimp paste balls], chai po pad khai [stir-fried sweet radish and egg], and pla chon hang [caramelized dried fish], all served alongside phak naem – beautifully carved vegetables like green mango, cucumber, and finger root ginger,” shares Nantana Chitman, a khao chae expert and enthusiast.

Over time, more side dishes were introduced, such as prik yuak yod sai (sweet green peppers stuffed with ground pork and shrimp, wrapped in delicate egg nets made by drizzling beaten egg in criss-cross patterns over a hot pan) and hom dang yud sai (deep-fried stuffed shallots), as well as moo foi (sweetened, crispy pork floss).

Eventually, khao chae evolved from a strictly royal dish to a treasured staple enjoyed by everyone during the sweltering months of March to May, coinciding with Songkran and marking the official start of summer. The act of pouring water holds significant meaning during the holiday, symbolizing cleansing – whether through bathing Buddha images or splashing water on friends and family, and of course, through food.

The iconic Sanguan Sri restaurant, opened in 1970 by its namesake owner, has stood for decades in the same spot, witnessing the city change around it without ever compromising its essence. Miss Sanguan Sri became known for her simple but driven approach to central Thai cuisine. However, it was her rendition of khao chae that really made the restaurant shine.

“The khao Chae here is simple yet delicious, known for its fragrant look kapi that has a slight hint of finger root, and the rice is perfectly fragrant and icy fresh” says Nantana. “It’s a meal we’ve enjoyed every summer, making it a tradition to spend time with family, relatives and friends” she adds.

After the owner’s passing at nearly 100 years old, she had no heirs, so the staff, most in their fifties, took over the restaurant. Auntie Lek, who has worked there since she was a teenager, is usually stationed at the cashier with little to say, overseeing everything with a watchful eye.

The space is straight from the seventies, never having changed. The entrance merely has a light blue signboard with the restaurant’s name in Thai. Inside, you are greeted by a long table lined with rows of assorted curries and soups in plastic baggies, ready for takeaway. The decor is minimal, reminiscent of a cafeteria with long tables topped with a stack of plates and napkin-wrapped cutlery and weathered folding chairs.

Young servers, mostly family members of the original staff, will bring you complimentary unsweetened iced tea along with cardboard menus in Thai. While there are English menus with pictures, you’ll need to ask for one. The space gets crowded during lunchtime with office workers and locals, so arriving early is essential to guarantee a seat, especially between April and May.

There is an art to enjoying the famous summer dish, with a few guidelines to follow. The components are all served on one plate and the bowl of chilled rice with jasmine water and ice is served separately. The bowl of rice should be covered with just enough fragrant water to be submerged, then topped with a couple of ice cubes. Avoid placing any of the side dishes directly in the rice as it will muddy the crystal-clear water and alter the refreshing flavor. Each component should be enjoyed individually, with a bite of rice in between. Make sure to take bites of the fresh fruits and vegetables to help refresh the palate and balance the sweetness.

Nowadays, khao chae can be found in various forms, from elegantly presented interpretations in stunning plateware like tiffin carriers, paired with a never-ending array of accouterments, to simpler versions like the one at Sanguan Sri, which has maintained its original recipe for 50 years. Either way, the dish serves as a reminder of how different cultural influences have long been a part of Thai society, and a beautiful and refreshing sign of summer.