Street Carts of Desire: The Tamale Ladies of Roosevelt Avenue

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Rashed wandered aimlessly in the dark, autumn leaves and twigs crunching under him with each step. Apart from the light from his Samsung, the scene around him was pitch black. “I just need to get signal so they can send me a recording of Lulu’s voice,” he said, hopeful but frustrated. Lulu is his beloved two-year old niece – the one who almost convinced him to stay in Istanbul when he squeezed her goodbye. It was the last time they touched before he left his family behind to embark on the harrowing three-week journey to Germany.

We’re very happy to announce that Culinary Backstreets turns one today! It’s been a wonderful first year and we’re thrilled to see how far we’ve come in this time. When we launched CB last year as the global expansion of IstanbulEats, we set ourselves the goal of covering authentic local eats around the world. As we described in our “Gastro Manifesto,” our mission was to get “off the eaten path,” sharing with readers our explorations of some great cities’ culinary backstreets. From four cities at the beginning – Istanbul, Athens, Barcelona and Shanghai – we grew to a network of six within the year, adding Mexico City and then Rio de Janeiro. Along the way, we’ve covered everything from family-run, hole-in-the-wall restaurants to quirky street foods in each city, from festive holiday culinary traditions to the sometimes fraught intersection of food and politics. A big “thank you” to our always curious and engaged readers, for your interest, support and feedback. Keep reading – and eating!

We are very proud to have been included in a New York Timesarticle about small group culinary tours that appears on the front page of today’s Dining section. Looking at food walks in Istanbul, Paris, Rome and a few other culinary capitals, the article hails the arrival of a new kind of guide – the “food Sherpa”:

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