In a city where dozens of new restaurants seem to sprout every week, it’s not an easy feat to stay on the culinary map for more than eight decades. Yet amidst the bustling streets of San Rafael hides a true oasis – a place where time seems to have stopped – a laid-back, family-run institution where fresh seafood and friendly service have been the norm for the past 80 years. Sitting down to lunch at Boca del Río on a Sunday is, perhaps, one of the best decisions we’ve made lately. The spacious, retro dining room is populated with a healthy mix of families, couples, and a few groups of friends who, like us, know their first mission is to order the ultimate Mexican hangover cure: micheladas and seafood. Afterwards comes a soothing cup of shrimp broth, savory and slightly spicy, keeping us company as we browse the menu.

It’s not every day that a meal is as delicious as it is revelatory. Yet Fogones Mx, located in Mexico City’s Roma Norte, manages to serve this kind of experience every weekend. Sprung from the Centro Nacional de Investigación y Difusión de la Cocina Tradicional Mexicana (CENAIN) project (the National Center for the Research and Dissemination of Traditional Mexican Cuisine), Fogones is the result of a partnership between Sulema Vega and Luis Alberto Llanos, whose passion for traditional Mexican cooking inspired them to travel across the country’s 32 states in search for those flavors, recipes, techniques, and traditions that make up the foundations of Mexico’s rich and complex culinary landscape. "The original idea for CENAIN was born in Cabo San Lucas as a festival with 32 traditional cooks,” says Sulema. After a few bumps in the road, Luis Alberto, who remained at the head of the project, decided to embark on an epic trip across the country, and Sulema joined as a partner along the way.

It’s that time of year: when we share our Spotify Wrapped, post our favorite memories of the year on Instagram and, of course, reminisce about the incredible things we ate and drank over the past 12 months. Living (and eating) in Mexico City means there’s plenty to be grateful for – from revitalizing seafood cocktails to fluffy pancakes to, of course, fabulous tacos. Join us as we remember our Best Bites of 2024. It’s that time of year: when we share our Spotify Wrapped, post our favorite memories of the year on Instagram and, of course, reminisce about the incredible things we ate and drank over the past 12 months. Living (and eating) in Mexico City means there’s plenty to be grateful for – from revitalizing seafood cocktails to fluffy pancakes to, of course, fabulous tacos. Join us as we remember our Best Bites of 2024.

One of the staples of Mexican cuisine (and of bar menus everywhere), the quesadilla can be found on almost every street corner and in every neighborhood market in Mexico City. Those served at Mercado San Cosme in Colonia San Rafael, however, redefine the quesadilla. Indeed, while this neighborhood market is far from being the city’s largest or most famous, it’s worth visiting just for a chance to eat at Quekas, an eatery housed in the market that makes some of the best quesadillas we’ve had in the city.

In a town that runs on tacos, tacos de guisado may be the most ubiquitous version of the iconic dish in Mexico City. They can be found almost anywhere in the city, from specialty restaurants to markets, tianguis and street vendors selling them at stalls or even out of the trunk of a car. It may be an obvious point, but what distinguishes some tacos de guisado from others is how well prepared the guisados (home-style cooked meats or vegetables typically displayed and kept warm in earthenware dishes called cazuelas) are – and sometimes those coming out of the back of a car top ones from more “established” places. With so many places to choose from, how to determine who makes the best tacos de guisado in town? One contender we had long heard about is Beatricita, a brick-and-mortar taquería in the Zona Rosa that has quietly been using the same recipes to great acclaim for almost 110 years – certainly strong evidence that its guisados could be some of the best in the city.

At its new location in Colonia Condesa, Chef Santiago Muñoz’s Maizajo has grown and evolved, yet maintains its original goal: to honor Mexico’s creole corn –the many endemic corn varieties that are grown traditionally across the country– and turn out some of Mexico City’s best tacos in the process. It’s a warm Saturday afternoon in CDMX, and there’s a line outside Maizajo. Chef Santiago Muñoz’s tortillería/taquería/restaurant, centered on Mexico’s revered corn, has been a hit since it opened in the winter of 2023, but this is in no way an out-of-the-blue phenomenon. Maizajo’s new outpost in Colonia Condesa is the concept’s third iteration, as well as its largest and most ambitious to date.

A traditional cantina with the looks of a saloon from an old Western movie, La Jaliscience is located in the southern Mexico City neighborhood of Tlalpan. Legend says that it has been there since “the dawn of time.” First it was a bodega, or warehouse, at the corner of the old government building that stands just in front – photos and written records certify its existence dating at least back to 1870. In those days this neighborhood was a town called San Agustín de las Cuevas, and La Jaliscience was the last chance to buy things for those heading to Cuernavaca or Acapulco by horse or mule; preserved goods were kept and sold here, and the customer could also have a drink before hitting the long and winding roads.

Pozole, like the tortilla, is one of those ancient dishes that seem to be embedded in Mexicans’ DNA, serving as a culinary link to the ancestral past. A type of soup or stew that was a ceremonial dish in pre-Hispanic Mexico, pozole has yet to be widely commercialized, offered mainly in pozolerías, small restaurants that specialize in serving up the dish and little else.

There are few feelings as universally heartwarming as sitting down at the family table – that space where everyone is welcome and the food always tastes incredible. That was the feeling owner Cristina Cialona was looking for when she opened the doors to María Ciento38 in 2016. Serving classic Sicilian cuisine, something no other Italian restaurant does in Mexico City, this charming eatery in the Santa María La Ribera neighborhood upholds tradition and authenticity, one dish at a time. A meal at María Ciento38 means exploring an extensive menu that features familiar items for any fan of Italian food: burrata, spaghetti alla carbonara, pizza Margherita. But take a closer look, and you’ll spot dishes you don’t see that often.

For the thirsty traveler looking to take a load off after – or during – a long day of exploring Mexico’s capital city, there’s no shortage of drink options. From a cold beer and salty snacks at a cantina to smoky, small-batch mezcal, to the ancient elixir that is pulque, it can be daunting to navigate CDMX’s drinking scene and pick out the best bars. Here are a few of our favorite spots, including mezcalerías, pulquerías and more, handpicked by our local guides over the years.

We know that spring has arrived in Mexico City when street carts crowned with whole mangoes begin to roll into town. While wandering the Centro Histórico’s bustling streets just last week, we bumped into Maria, a seasonal worker whose cart is currently laden with this favorite springtime fruit. Intrigued, we stopped to watch as she deftly skewered the mango in her hand with a stick, peeled off the skin, made decorative cuts to transform the bright orange flesh into a beautiful flower, which she then brushed with chamoy, a classic Mexican sauce, and dipped in one of the brightly colored powders stored in plastic boxes: salsa tajín, chamoy, salt, chile or everything mixed together.

It’s finally hot in Mexico City. We’re smack dab in the middle of that two-month window between March and April that brings a dry, summer heat before the snow has even started to melt in some northern climates. The city is steaming, and chilangos are hunting down their favorite cool foods and the ubiquitous agua frescas sold in outdoor markets. We’re scouring the market, too, in search of our favorite hot weather treat, a cold chicozapote. A palm-sized oval with a rough brown exterior and an interior similar to a cooked pear in consistency, the chicozapote is not a fruit you find outside of many tropical or sub-tropical climates. Called a different name in almost every Caribbean and Central American country, this fruit and its cousins trail down the continent.

In over a decade of sampling the best of Mexico City’s backstreets, finding a truly good taco has never been an elusive task. Navigating all the different types, toppings and tortillas is another story – from al pastor with Lebanese roots to pit-roasted barbacoa to delectable clay pots of stews for tacos de guisado, the world of Mexico City tacos feels infinite. There appears to be a different taco for every occasion, and the options can be overwhelming. Our local guides have done their due diligence in finding some of Mexico City’s best tacos and, in a long overdue roundup, below we bring you some of our favorites to date. From classic taquerías to busy market stalls and even an auto repair shop, read on for our top taco recommendations.

After winning over hearts and stomachs with his first restaurant, Madereros, in the quiet San Miguel Chapultepec area, chef Mario Espinosa set his eyes on the incredibly charming neighborhood of Santa María La Ribera for his next adventure. The project? The mushroom-centric Tencüi, which means “connect” in Náhuatl, a traditional Uto-Aztecan language spoken by peoples native to central Mexico. As fans of Madereros and after months of hearing about the wonders coming out of the kitchen at Tencüi, we finally made it to Santa María to taste the menu for ourselves.

From the point in 2002 when multibillionaire Carlos Slim inked a deal with Mexico City to revitalize its historic center until now, there have been layers of change. Streets were made pedestrian-only after months of work by bulldozers and jackhammers. Broken windows and abandoned buildings have been replaced with countless new shop fronts offering shiny opportunities. Despite the strictures of tough legal bulwarks against eviction, a Giuliani-esque wave of economic empowerment has swept the city’s center, spray-brushing away signs of endemic poverty in ironic lockstep with scheduled protests by social-justice movements ranked by those who casually grab a bite after the march. Crowds are swelling along the planned corridors.