Athens

Sampling Greece's Best Reds and Whites

Numerous wines and craft cheeses are enjoyed on our Greek Wine's Rebirth, Uncorked walk, where some of the country's most exciting up-and-coming wines are presented alongside perfectly-paired snacks.

Mexico City

Mexico City's Street Food Paradise

Some of the best tacos in Mexico City are found on the street, and they are among the delicacies sampled on our Mexico City, Street Food Paradise walk.

Athens

Sipping Retsina in Athens

Retsina is a pine resin-infused white wine beloved in Greece, and is among the many exciting wines that are sampled on our Greek Wines Rebirth, Uncorked walk, where one gets the opportunity to dive deep in to the country's resurgent wine culture.

Tbilisi

Hello Moonshine: A Chacha Journey in the Georgian Countryside

A fabulous spread like this awaits you on our chacha-fueled feast in the Kakheti region of Georgia. On Saturday November 5, there are still spots available on this wonderful excursion, which includes an in-depth workshop on the chacha (Georgian moonshine) distillation, followed up by a bountiful feast. Make sure to secure your spot!

Breakfast in Beijing

Douhua, a tofu pudding, is a breakfast staple in Beijing, and among the many morning treats that one may enjoy on our Breakfast in Beijing's Backstreets walk!

Athens

Ring-Shaped and Sesame-Studded, Koulouri is a Grab n' Go Athens Delight

The ring-shaped koulouri is covered in sesame seeds and sold fresh on Athens' street corners. It is a guaranteed encounter on our Athens walks, and an integral part of an Athens morning. It is also the Greek counterpart of the Turkish simit.

Tbilisi

Rows of Treats Adorn Tbilisi's Deserter's Bazaar

Delicious churchkhelas, a string of nuts dipped in a thick roux of grape juice, are among the countless treats on offer at Tbilisi's Deserter's Bazaar, the focal point of our culinary walk in the Georgian capital.

Tbilisi

CB Book Club: Caroline Eden and Eleanor Ford's Samarkand

We recently spoke with travel writer Caroline Eden and food writer Eleanor Ford about their new cookbook, Samarkand: Recipes & Stories from Central Asia & the Caucasus (Kyle Books; July 2016). Eden has written for the Guardian, the Telegraph and the Financial Times, among other publications, while Ford has been an editor for the Good Food Channel, BBC Food and the magazine Good Food and currently writes about restaurants for Time Out. How did this book come about? Caroline Eden: It was an idea I was percolating for a long time, since about 2009. Travelling in Central Asia, mainly as a journalist but sometimes for fun, I got fed up with guidebooks dismissing the food in the region as “survival fare.”

Barcelona

Vermut Time in Barcelona

It's "vermouth hour" in Barcelona, one of our favorites times of day and an integral part of our Bodega: Barcelona Barrio Tradition, in Bulk walk.

Athens

Pork Souvlaki in the Heart of Plaka

This delicious plate of pork souvlaki is from Paradosiako, an Athens favorite of ours in the heart of Plaka. One may encounter such a delicacy on our walk through the area.

Barcelona

A Wall of Wine and Spirits at Bodega Manolo

Bodega Manolo has an excellent wine and tapas selection and is one of our favorite spots in Barcelona. The bodega is an essential part of the city's culture, and we have an entire walk devoted to it!

Istanbul

Fried Hamsi and Tekir in an Istanbul Market

When in season, fried hamsi (anchovies) and tekir (mullet) are among the tasty treats encountered on our Two Markets, Two Continents walk in Istanbul.

Barcelona

Tapas and Vermut: What's More to Want?

Barcelona's Bodegas Vinito is a popular neighborhood spot that serves up excellent and reasonably-priced tapas and vermut. Did we mention it's a stop on our bodega tour?

Lisbon

Drinking Lisbon's Traditional Liqueur

Veteran bartender Abílio Coelho pours shots of Lisbon's traditional liqueur, the sour cherry-based ginjinha. This spirit is a staple of our Culinary Crossroads walk. Read more about Coelho and his poison of choice in our Behind Bars feature! Thanks to Rick Poon for the photo.

Istanbul

A Gaziantep Delicacy

This delicious, pistachio dust-covered slice of Antep katmer is as decadent as it looks, and can be enjoyed on our Two Markets, Two Continents tour.

Rio

Amazonian Food in Santa Teresa

Delicious Amazonian food is just one element of our truly adventurous walk in the artsy, hillside Rio de Janeiro neighborhood of Santa Teresa.

Istanbul

First Stop: Somer Sivrioglu's Istanbul

Editor's note: In the latest installment of our recurring feature, First Stop, we asked chef Somer Sivrioglu of the Sydney restaurant Efendy where he stops first for food when he returns to his hometown of Istanbul. Sivrioglu is the author of the cookbook Anatolia: Adventures in Turkish Cooking (Murdoch Books, April 2016). Any list is controversial and biased by its nature, and lists do not get any more biased than mine, as I am a Kadıköy fanatic and impossible to convince that there are better versions of food on the European side of Istanbul. I was born and raised in Kadıköy, and we lived first at Caferağa, five minutes to Kadıköy market, then in Moda, Kalamış and Fenerbahçe.

Athens

Rollicking Good Times at an Athens Basement Taverna

We had to share this lovely photograph taken by Don Kedgley at Diporto, a basement taverna that has been around since 1887 and ranks among our favorite spots in Athen

Tbilisi

CB Book Club: Alice Feiring's For the Love of Wine

Editor’s note: In the latest installment in our Book Club series, we spoke to Alice Feiring, author of For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World’s Most Ancient Wine Culture (Potomac Books, 2016). She is the author of two other books, publishes the newsletter The Feiring Line, has written for numerous publications and has received a James Beard Award for her writing. How did this book come about? Amazingly, the Georgian government asked me for an “Alice kind of book” that they could use promotionally. It was a small, no-strings-attached, rambling essay on Georgian wine. I realized I had written a book proposal, so I developed the idea and took it from there.

Lisbon

Tasting Exquisite Presunto Pata Negra in Lisbon

This exquisite 24 and 40 month jamón ibérico from the Alentejo region of Portugal can be enjoyed on our Lisbon tour. Thanks to Rick Poon for the appetizing photo.

Istanbul

Hayvore: Lost and Found

In the Laz language, “si sore” means, “where are you?” At least twice a week for past few years, our answer to that question at lunchtime would be, “We are at Pera Sisore.” This little restaurant in the Asmalımescit area became one of our go-to lunch spots by serving some of the best Black Sea food around town. But after a disagreement, the two partners of the restaurant went their separate ways and the quality at Pera Sisore, sadly, took a turn for the worse. We were feeling a bit lost for a period, not knowing where to go for a quick, honest lunch of hearty Laz fare. The Black Sea area is Turkey’s culinary misfit – it's not really about kebabs or mezes. If anything, the food there seems to have been mysteriously transplanted from the American Deep South.

Istanbul

Putting Istanbul's Classic Street Food Vendors on the Map

As part of CB's "Usta All-Stars" card project, our intrepid researcher Ali Akas went around town interviewing street food vendors about their work, the food they serve and some of their trade secrets. Besides the cards, another result of Ali's work was this map, which plots the relative locations of some of Istanbul's finest vendors.

Barcelona

Along Barcelona’s Urban Wine Trail

For more than a year, we’ve been trying to find a way to approach the mammoth subject of Spanish wine with a suitable culinary activity. Barcelona has a sophisticated wine scene representing the best of Catalonia and all of Spain. In sober rooms, we attended tastings that were a bit too academic for our taste. We visited new-age wine bars with a list limited to Catalan bio/organic wines and nothing else. In Barcelona’s many wine shops, we sampled when we could and shopped for bottles, as we might in any international city. During this research, we got up close and personal with what was in the glass but often felt disconnected from the local culture of drinking wine.

Lisbon

CB’s On the Ground in Lisbon!

Lisbon seems to be getting its groove back. Or at least, more people are taking notice of this city’s unique character and clearly taking to it. Recently, Vogue and The New York Times profiled the Intendente district, an up-and-coming neighborhood in the city center; Monocle magazine held its first “Quality of Life” conference in Lisbon; and many friends of ours, from Istanbul to San Francisco, are sharing beautiful photos of their latest trip to the city. Oddly, in a city on the upswing with such a rich culinary heritage, we found there was little storytelling on the subject of food and how it impacts Lisbon’s urban culture, be it in print, on the Web or on the ground (as in a tour or other guided experience).

Rio

Best Bites 2015: Rio

Editor's note: To give 2015 a proper send-off, we're taking a look back at all our favorite eating experiences of the year.

Athens

Best Bites 2015: Athens

Editor’s note: We’re celebrating another year of excellent backstreets eating by taking a look back at our favorite restaurants and dishes of 2015. In a country that can boast of very few authentic (if there can be said to be such a thing when it comes to cooking) Greek desserts, galaktoboureko remains quintessentially Greek. This semolina custard pie of cream between layers of thin phyllo doused in syrup remains a firm national favorite. Kosmikon is the undisputed king of Athenian galaktoboureko. An old-fashioned dessert shop operating since 1961, it now has five locations around Athens. The galaktoboureko here is done the traditional way, with butter from Thessaly in central Greece or Mytilene, homemade phyllo and – most importantly – no lemon or orange flavoring, just the traditional vanilla. The result is that rare thing when it comes to phyllo-based, syrup-drenched desserts: a wonderfully balanced concoction, sweet but not too sweet, with cream oozing from the sides, and the phyllo remaining thin and crisp. We recommend going to the two central locations in Agios Nikolaos and Agios Eleftherios for their charmingly retro atmosphere.

Barcelona

Best Bites 2015: Barcelona

Editor’s note: We’re celebrating another year of excellent backstreets eating by taking a look back at our favorite restaurants and dishes of 2015. La Panxa del Bisbe Xavi Codina has created a menu of almost 30 tapas or platillos (small dishes) and four desserts, combining traditional Catalan cuisine with international influences that Codina has encountered in his life or in the neighborhood. Much of the menu changes according to season and customers’ tastes, but there are a few perennial favorites, such as the homey croquettes, with their generous quantity of chicken and carrots; duck liver with pears and wine; and the cap i pota, a traditional dish made from pork trotters and head, which the chef tweaks throughout the year.

Istanbul

First Stop: Stavriani Zervakakou's Istanbul

Editor's note: In the latest installment of our ongoing series First Stop, we asked Stavriani Zervakakou, chef of the restaurant Karaköy Gümrük in Istanbul, where she stops first for food when she returns to Istanbul. (We've written previously about her First Stop in Athens.) Lamb liver skewers in the Aksaray district’s Horhor neighborhood; domatesli kebap with wheat pilaf behind the Egyptian Spice Bazaar in Eminönü; fish and bread from Emin Usta in Karaköy; a simple but delicious pressed sandwich with kavurma – beef rendered in its own fat – and kaşar cheese from Petek near the Galata Tower; or a postmodern kumru from 6/24 in Nişantaşı would be my top list for a first welcoming bite in Istanbul. The time of landing and my mood determine my final pick as a first stop, and when I feel adventurous I

Mexico City

CB Book Club: Alex Stupak and Jordana Rothman's Tacos

Editor’s note: In the latest installment in our Book Club series, we spoke to Jordana Rothman and chef Alex Stupak, co-authors of Tacos: Recipes and Provocations (Clarkson Potter, October 2015). How did this book come to be? We met right before Empellón Taqueria opened in 2011 and instantly felt that we were simpatico in the way we think about, talk about and approach food. We quickly became friends, and as time passed we began talking casually about collaborating on a book project. Eventually those musings turned into plotting and that plotting turned into a book deal, and here we are a few years later with our names on the cover.

Athens

First Stop: Stavriani Zervakakou's Athens

Editor's note: In the latest installment of our ongoing series First Stop, we asked Stavriani Zervakakou, chef of the restaurant Karaköy Gümrük in Istanbul, where she stops first for food when she returns to Athens. Athens rarely lets me down when it comes to food. And although I am a seafood person, the first thing my soul craves after a long stay in Istanbul are grilled juicy pork skewers calmly hugged by the crispy arms of a well-baked pita bread.

Istanbul

A Visit to Istanbul's "Little Syria"

Over the last few years, as a growing number of Syrians fleeing the violence in their homeland have made their way to Istanbul, the Aksaray district has swiftly turned into the city's "Little Syria," filled with shops and restaurants catering to this new Syrian diaspora. CB photographer Ipek Baltutan recently spent a day walking around the area, capturing some of the flavor of this newly formed enclave.

Athens

Best Bites of 2014: Athens

Editor’s note: The year is coming to an end, which means it’s time for us to look back on all the great eating experiences we had in 2014 and name our favorites among them. Pavlidis This modern-looking patisserie is located in central Athens on busy Katehaki, a street more associated with car mechanics than with any sort of food. The Pavlidis family has been in the pastry business since 1932. Famous for its galaktoboureko, this patisserie actually prides itself on its mandoles, a rock-shaped chocolate concoction with caramelized almonds. But really, it’s the kaimaki ice cream which comes in two different variations that we love most. Good kaimaki ice cream is hard to come by; it tends to be quite heavy. Pavlidis makes its version the classic – and correct – way, using buffalo milk, mastic and salepi, flour made from the root of wild orchids, which produces a milky and chewy treat. The bitter almond version is a fragrant, melt-in-your-mouth masterpiece. This is far and away our favorite ice cream in Athens.

Seeking Your Best Bites of 2012

Continuing a tradition we began at IstanbulEats.com, as we approach the end of the year, we’ll be publishing “Best Bites of 2012,” a roundup of our top culinary experiences over the last year in each of the cities Culinary Backstreets covers. Submitted by our correspondents in Istanbul, Athens, Barcelona, Mexico City and Shanghai, these “Best Bites” are not only about the quality of the food – though it usually seems to factor in – but the quality of the experience. Our best bites are those perfect little dining moments when the right food ended up in front of us at precisely the right time, like a consoling bowl of soup in a steamy restaurant on a rainy day or a meal where all of the elements wonderfully came together.

Putting the CB Back into CBS!

Culinary Backstreets’ co-founders Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer recently spent a few days introducing a crew from the CBS Sunday Morning show to Istanbul’s gastronomic underbelly, at one point journeying in a rickety wooden boat on the Golden Horn in order to get to the next meal.

Introducing Culinary Backstreets: Our Gastro Manifesto

Let’s be honest: for most of us, city travel is really about eating. Sure, we make plans to visit the local monuments and important museums, but those are merely placeholders.