Even for someone like myself who has lived in Japan for a long time, sliding open the door of an unfamiliar place can still be a little intimidating, as what lies beyond is invariably a complete unknown.
Still, the effort is almost always worth it, as it provides entry into a whole new world, and more often than not, one where time has stood still.
This is especially true in the suburban areas outside of Tokyo, where things are generally more dated, and in many ways, simply more real, offering a sense of what daily life in the Japanese capital is like. These are not soulless suburbs but rather little cities on the edge of the big city that have more than enough options for everyday living – a mix of shops and eateries, plus lots of apartment buildings and small, two-story homes. There is a whole world of bars and restaurants to be found here, each place a unique spot to have a drink, enjoy some food, and soak up the old-school atmosphere.
Head west off the beaten track to less central parts of the city where people live rather than work. The Chuo and Keio lines from Shinjuku station have a multitude of stops to explore, as do the Seibu lines from Ikebukuro and Seibu-Shinjuku – different and invariably rewarding suburbs that offer all kinds of opportunities, as well as a sense of what Tokyo is like to live in on a daily basis away from the capital’s many entertainment districts.
In the north of Tokyo, this truly tiny bar is now run by the son of the original owner. A spot where the menu is minimal, but the visuals are absolutely amazing. The TV is the only real nod to modernity, with the patina on the walls and windows speaking of the decades it has been in business.
Whereas food in the previous place was fairly limited in variety, this old standing bar isn’t lacking in any way whatsoever. It’s also the same in regards to conversation and inclusion – a place that immediately felt comfortable, making it the perfect spot to eat, drink, and happily chat the evening away.
Down a residential street in the capital’s far west, this small izakaya was basically an extension of the owner’s house, and as such, it really did feel like a home away from home. The proprietor’s warm welcome only added to this sensation. Even the food continued the theme, as she conjured up dishes from whatever was found in the refrigerator.
Nothing is more enticing than seeing and, of course, smelling food being cooked, and this was certainly the case at this traditional izakaya in east Tokyo. The cook’s constant movements were mesmerizing as he effortlessly managed a variety of meat and innards from order to charcoal grill to customer. Stepping in for some samples proved utterly irresistible.
One of the many benefits of these local bars is the chance to see and speak to the owners: individuals who, more often than not, are getting on a bit in age, and so are blessed with a lifetime of experience and stories. Some are quite shy, but this fella is always the life and soul of his small establishment, mixing serving and cooking with a constant flow of banter and belly laughs, making for an atmosphere like no other.
In business for over 40 years and run by its octogenarian owner, this wonderfully dated yakitori restaurant was like nowhere else. Nestled in a sleepy suburban area, entering was a bit like stepping back in time, and the surprise we felt was matched by the surprise we caused – my friend and I being the first Western foreigners the bar had ever seen. An experience in a city like Tokyo that still surprises me to this day.
Another spot tucked away in Tokyo’s western suburbs, this bar is very much a local place for local regulars, with many of them dropping by several times a week. (Quite a few have done so for many years.) It’s a place to get some dinner, have a couple of drinks and catch up with familiar faces, an old-school establishment where everyone knows your name, and where the owner’s personality is as warm as her food.
Well into her eighties, the owner of this suburban izakaya had cut back on the food she served, her age proving a challenge for the demands of cooking on a daily basis. Drinks, however, still flowed, with snacks available to provide at least some sustenance. The lack of anything properly filling was more than made up for by the friendly and relaxed vibe the mama-san created –a lady whose laugh and welcoming demeanor epitomizes why seeking out such places is always worth the effort.
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Published on April 02, 2025
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