TbilisiMiss Maria, a Tbilisi Armenian, sells cured pork, salted pork fat, and Armenian cured beef basturma and sujuk at the Deserter’s Bazaar. We meet her and other vendors like her as we meander through the market – a bustling medley of people selling those products that are the rudiments to Georgian cuisine – on our…

TbilisiWhile wandering deep in the guts of the Deserter’s Bazaar, Tbilisi’s largest and oldest open-air marketplace, we stumbled upon the raffish wine section where men (mostly) drop by for a few toasts. Join our Old Market & Beyond walk to taste these authentic homemade wines and chacha – Georgia’s legendary take on grappa – for…

TbilisiGuda cheese is sheep cheese from eastern Georgia, aged in guda, which is sheep skin. Nowadays most guda is aged in plastic, but we found one vendor at the Deserter’s Bazaar in Tbilisi who has the real deal in her stall, which comes from Tusheti in the high Caucasus.