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Shanghai’s hottest summer on record is officially behind us, which can mean only one thing: Mid-Autumn Festival is just around the corner. Zhōngqiū jié (中秋节) is that memorable time of year when Chinese people gift (and regift) bite-sized treats known as mooncakes (月饼, yuèbǐng). Last year, we wrote about the legend behind these treats, as well as some of the more traditional spots to pick them up. This year, the “fruitcake of China” has become the focus of the government’s controversial austerity plan, and new, non-traditional versions have started appearing in stores, too.

Since becoming president of China in 2012, Xi Jinping has set his sights on eliminating corruption and curbing government spending. The reforms have taken a toll on the economy, with high-end restaurants that used to cater to over-the-top government banquets reporting big losses and Moutai báijiǔ seeing a significant drop in consumption. Mooncakes are just the latest luxury victim in the government-wide austerity campaign.

These traditional high-calorie treats were estimated to be a 10-billion-RMB industry in 2011, and environmental groups estimate that more than 2 million of the desserts were thrown away last year in Hong Kong alone. But conventionally, mooncakes were given to family members and neighbors, and individual cakes were sliced up into eight pieces to be eaten bit by bit, spreading both the luck and the calories around. In recent years, these sweets have become an essential part of business culture, with extravagant fillings (including abalone, truffles and even solid gold, which Jing Daily reports sold for 42,900 RMB or $7,000) designed to grease official palms or to be returned to the store by the recipient for cash.

Corporate and individual sales seem relatively unaffected by the government crackdown. Generally in the mid-tier or lower price range, respectively, these mooncake purchases come from hotels or supermarkets rather than high-end specialty retailers.

As China’s younger generations have established themselves as more spendthrift than their parents, they have become a major target demographic for mooncake brands, and with that generational shift in purchasing power comes a change in palate. These younger, more worldly consumers are intrigued by Western flavors and discerning when it comes to supply and ingredients – a consequence of the food safety scandals that have rocked the country in recent years. Traditional flavors like red bean paste, sweet pork and egg yolks are still the norm at five-star hotels like the Mandarin Oriental and Peninsula, but a few groundbreaking offerings have become available this year.

Strictly Cookies
Getting into the spirit of the holidays while also staying true to its name, Strictly Cookies is offering mooncake-cookies, or “mookies,” available for delivery or at their brick-and-mortar shop, Nom Nom Dessert Bar. Presented by the dozen in a red box, the six mouthwatering varieties include chocolate chip stuffed with a brownie, peanut butter with raspberry jam and purple potato with white chocolate. In a nod to tradition, they’ve also got a plain sugar cookie piped with red bean paste – a delicious primer for anyone looking to explore the local bean-heavy dessert scene.

Dashu Wujie
At the other end of the mooncake spectrum, Dashu Wujie, a chic, high-end vegetarian eatery, is selling a version for the health-conscious. With Tibetan barley on the outside, the cakes are stuffed with real chunks of pineapple for a natural sweetness that doesn’t require added sugar. In keeping with their environmentally friendly theme, the hampers the cakes come in are made of non-polluting, non-toxic renewable materials and include organic rice, tea and sauces.

Starbucks
The world’s caffeinator always provides interesting mooncake flavors, but this year they’ve added ones with cheese (espresso, cheese and orange or green tea, toffee and cheese), an interesting choice considering the continent’s tendency toward lactose intolerance and general distaste for dairy products. Also on offer are their higher-end mooncakes featuring coffees from Colombia and Kenya mixed with blueberries, macadamia nuts and orange.

Goods of Desire (G.O.D.)
The Hong Kong-based purveyors of tongue-in-cheek clothing and home décor have once again released their “Full Moon Collection”: mooncakes molded into the shapes of derrieres are available for order online. While the exterior is non-traditional, to put it mildly, the bum-shaped cakes are stuffed with old-style white lotus seed paste and egg yolk.

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Jamie Barys and Kyle Long

Published on September 16, 2013

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