In the heart of Seoul’s Central Business District, a short stroll from the Jonggak and Anguk subway stations, Baekbujangjip has quietly built a reputation for serving one of Korea’s most unassuming yet comforting dishes: dakhanmari.
Chicken soup is a universal comfort food, found in countless forms around the world. In Korea, dakhanmari carries the same meaning of nourishment and a sense of home. Served in a communal pot, dakhanmari is more than just food – it’s a soothing ritual for workers and passersby seeking a brief escape from the city’s relentless pace.
Baekbujangjip sits in Jongno, a district rich in history yet still bustling with Korea’s business, politics, and culture. Its location adds something special to the experience, blending the vibrancy of modern life with the rich stories of the past.
The restaurant’s location was once a reception hall for a wedding venue across the street, where the owners, a husband-and-wife duo, originally served dishes like galbitang (clear beef short rib soup) and bulgogi (marinated and grilled beef), both popular dishes traditionally served at special occasions like weddings. When the wedding hall closed, they shifted their focus to dakhanmari, inspired by their Christian faith and the Bible’s affirmation of eating fowl. The restaurant’s name, Baekbujangjip, means “The house of baekbujang” or “The house of the centurion.” The name pays homage to the centurion in the New Testament, a figure of steadfast leadership and devotion (though many people likely assume Baekbujang refers to some “bujang” – a manager or department head in Korean – named Baek). Since opening in 1992, the owners have poured their energy into perfecting their recipe. Word spread, and their dedication made Baekbujangjip a beloved spot for locals and visitors, celebrated for its hearty, no-frills comfort food.
Dakhanmari literally means “one whole chicken.” Each order is served in a large metal vessel brimming with broth and tender, long-simmered pieces of chicken (on the bone). The soup also contains chunks of green onions, tteok (rice cakes) and thick slices of potato. As the broth boils steadily, a light sheen of rendered chicken fat shimmers on the surface, hinting at the depth of its slow-cooked flavors.
Dakhanmari restaurants often serve a do-it-yourself dipping sauce, but Baekbujangjip offers its own signature version, which has developed a cult following. Bright red with a slightly chunky texture, the sauce is made by soaking dried red chili peppers – the same kind that is ground into gochugaru – before blending them with sweet onions. Soy sauce, vinegar, and hot mustard are added to the mix, resulting in a salty, umami-rich, tangy, mildly sweet condiment with just enough heat to make it addictive.
Diners take turns ladling the hot broth into their bowls. They fish out the rice cakes, tender chicken, sweet green onions, and soft potatoes, dipping each piece into the tangy red sauce. A slurp of broth, a bite of chicken, a mouthful of fluffy potato – it’s a comforting ritual. As the broth reduces, the “aunties,” an affectionate term for the restaurant staff, return with large kettles, refilling the vessel with more broth to keep the meal going. Guests can choose either fresh noodles or white rice to round off the meal. Adding the starch transforms the broth into either a hearty chicken noodle soup or a velvety juk (porridge) – a simple, satisfying way to end a comforting meal.
It is inevitable that people compare dakhanmari to another iconic Korean chicken soup: samgyetang. While samgyetang features health-boosting ingredients like ginseng, ginkgo, and jujubes, dakhanmari offers a different kind of appeal. “Samgyetang is more expensive, made with ingredients often considered special, and served in individual pots. In contrast, dakhanmari is a shared dish – simple, approachable, and for everyone,” the owners explain.
Quality is paramount here. The restaurant sources only the best ingredients – top-grade potatoes, vibrant green onions, and of course, the freshest rice cakes. This attention to detail makes all the difference in such a simple recipe, where every element must shine.
Baekbujangjip’s bustling vibe is equally unforgettable. The first floor hums with activity as diners squeeze into packed tables, while the second floor offers traditional floor seating. The restaurant’s location near Gyeongbokgung Palace makes it an easy spot to drop by for both locals and tourists. The aunties work with remarkable efficiency, navigating the chaos with purpose. Despite the constant rush, they remain warm and attentive, greeting regulars with familiar smiles. The owner sits behind the counter, offering a warm, welcoming presence and exchanging friendly conversations with customers. Meanwhile, the phone rings nonstop – takeout orders, reservation calls. Orders fly out the door – everyone seems to be in search of a filling meal that feels both familiar and comforting.
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Published on February 13, 2025
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