Activity has resumed at the narrow door hidden between the shops on Calle Getaria, in the heart of San Sebastian. Since May, nostalgic patrons of Ibai, the iconic little restaurant tucked away in the basement of an ancient house in the downtown area, can once again sit at its six indoor tables and savor signature dishes like salpicón de bogavante (lobster with a citrus dressing) and perfectly fire-kissed grilled fish.
Open for almost 40 years, the restaurant has held an extraordinary place in the memories of the Donostiarras (the locals of Donostia, as San Sebastian is known in the Basque language), who never forgot the kokotxas, hake, and anchovies served by Alicio Garro and his friendly team. However, the Covid-19 pandemic forced Ibai to close its doors, leaving a void in the city’s gastronomic scene.
The scenario changed in 2023, when chef Paulo Airaudo decided to bring the restaurant back to life. An Argentinian with Italian roots, Airaudo moved to San Sebastian in 2017, where he built a small restaurant empire that includes Amélia, his fine-dining restaurant with two Michelin stars; a modern Italian spot called La Bottega; and The Blind Pig, the city’s only speakeasy. But he had his sights set on Ibai. “Every time I saw Garro, I insisted: ‘We have to reopen it; Ibai cannot be closed,’” he recalls.
The chef had been a regular customer since his arrival in the city and quickly recognized that a place implementing daily market products and seasonal ingredients with such quality and care could not vanish. “One day, I made a proposal and decided to bring Ibai back to life myself,” he says. Airaudo spearheaded a renovation to transform the interior of the restaurant, giving the space a cleaner, airier, and more modern look. This transformation of the kitchen and dining area matches the new energy that Airuado has brought to this project. At present, Garro remains the owner of Ibai, while Airaudo holds the operating rights for the next 15 years.
“There is a great synergy between what I believe and what I pursue in my restaurants: creating a cuisine centered on high-quality products. I have adapted some recipes to cooking techniques that interest me, focusing mainly on vegetables, fish, and shellfish. I’ve given absolute importance to ensuring that everything from the aperitif to the dessert experience is at a level of excellence,” Airaudo explains.
The restaurant’s original philosophy remains unchanged: “The season dictates, the market guides, and the suppliers provide. We do our best with the products we have at hand, selecting them with the utmost care,” he assures. The menu – both à la carte and in a tasting menu format – focuses on products from the surrounding Basque Country: fish and seafood from the Bizkaia Gulf, vegetables grown on the mountain slopes such as asparagus and peas, and the famous and traditional txuleta (a chunk of beef cooked on a charcoal barbecue).
To make the restaurant more welcoming to the neighborhood, Airaudo brought back the pintxos bar that existed for many years at Ibai. Basque-style snacks are served starting in the early morning hours, with coffee and even wines available for those who want a quick bite without having to sit at a table. There is potato tortilla, of course, as well as iconic local dishes like Gildas, foie a la plancha (slightly grilled foie gras), and ensaladilla rusa, among others.
“We revived part of the bar because it was a beloved feature of Ibai until 2010, when they stopped serving there. The philosophy is to offer seasonal products in miniature. This also allows for a more agile and direct approach to Ibai,” says Xabier de La Maza, director of operations at the restaurant.
Since reopening, the tables and the counter have been consistently full. “Reopening a place like Ibai is something special. After a pandemic, the death of Juantxo [one of the restaurant’s founding brothers], and four years of closure, this has been a beautiful revival,” says La Maza. Born and raised in San Sebastian, he understands the value the restaurant has always had in the city. “As an owner, I am happy that we could invest in Ibai and that we managed to bring together an excellent team and reopen it to the city,” he adds.
Currently open only on weekdays – and only during the day, for both sit-down lunch at the tables and quicker bites at the bar – the new Ibai aims to maintain the aura of the old, even under new management. Despite all the renovations, some objects and paintings were preserved, as was the restaurant’s style. Those who arrive notice the changes but still recognize the familiar Ibai beneath the linen tablecloths and the modern touches. “This is a very beloved project that has been nurtured slowly and with great care,” says Airaudo. Now, the restaurant is ready to reignite excitement among locals and visitors.
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