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And the winner is… Okay, okay, it’s nothing like the Oscar ceremony. But everyone in attendance at Comida di Buteco 2014 – the most important popular gastronomy competition in Rio – did hold a collective breath moments before the winner was announced. When the hostess proclaimed Bar da Frente the victor, the Rio Scenarium, the old theater in Lapa where the award ceremony was held, almost came down. Screams, tears, emotional speeches – there was definitely some similarity to the Academy Awards, we have to say. After a month of extremely hard work and profound hope for the 31 bars that took part in the competition for “best botequim food” in town, this was the moment we had all been waiting for.

Winning Comida di Buteco is huge for any botequim in Rio – as well as in the other 15 Brazilian cities where the contest takes place every year. It’s a recognition of quality, a guarantee that the bar offers good food at good prices, which, in carioca botequim culture, means a great deal. As with all competitions based on a popular vote, the result does not always reflect reality. But the 2014 edition of Comida di Buteco was truly fair, rewarding some of the best petiscos (typical botequim dishes) in town.

Bar da Frente's Porquinho de Quimono, photo by Juarez BecozaBar da Frente is not especially famous, nor is it traditional. It was founded only six years ago. But the talent of the owners, Valéria Rezende and her daughter, Mariana, for cooking unusual and tasty petiscos made this tiny bar in Praça da Bandeira a strong favorite, right from its initial entry into the contest. This year, they created a Brazilian version of harumaki, the Japanese spring roll. Called Porquinho de Quimono – roughly “Little Judo Pig” – it was made with pork rib and cream cheese with herbs. Strange name aside, this dish was downright delicious.

Second-place winner Bar do Bahiano is actually a favela bar: up until two years ago, it was just a common juice and snack joint in the heart of Morro dos Tabajaras, one of the most dangerous favelas in Copacabana. But after the end of hostilities, thanks to social and police intervention undertaken by the government, Mr. Bahiano, the owner of the bar, was able to expand his business and better show his gastronomic talents to everyone. The petisco he created for Comida di Buteco, Delícias do Mar (“Ocean Delights”), combined shrimp, octopus, crab and mussels with a gratinéed topping of parmesan – simply exquisite.

Remember, Morro dos Tabajaras is safe, but it is still a favela. So don’t expect many comforts or professional table service at Bar do Bahiano. The key to happiness there is to feel like you are visiting the owner’s home – and actually, you are.

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Juarez Becoza

Published on June 02, 2014

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