Ricardo Manuel Pires Martins likes to brag about the popularity of his bar among Japanese tourists. We don’t begrudge him that, because if you’re in the market for seafood, particularly the less-cooked kind, as these tourists evidently are, Adega Pérola is your bar. Tucked on a commercial lane a few blocks behind the Art Deco condo-and-hotel jam that is the Copacabana beachside, Adega sticks close to its Iberian roots, with wine jugs lining the high wall shelves and a selection of about a hundred tapas stewing in their respective marinades behind the glass bar window.
The bar was opened in 1957 by a Portuguese family from the island of Madeira, changing only gradually (such as adding draft beer to their wine and longneck selection) in the decades since. Expect spice-heavy and tender seafood, a rarity for the battered-and-fried carioca palate, in addition to powerful side dishes, like marinated artichokes and goat cheese in pink pepper.
The tapas selection could hardly be more gringo-friendly – just point to what looks tastiest. Best sellers include the rollmops, sardines in vinegar, herbs and onions, the pérolas do mar, which includes shrimp, mussels and scallops, and the polvo ao vinagrette, octopus in tomato and onion sauce. Arenque (herring), truta (trout), and xerelete (“the horse-eyed jack” – check out the video to see where the name comes from) are all up for grabs. For sides, go local by trying the lightly bitter jiló, sometimes referred to in English as “scarlet eggplant,” and a food that Brazilians either love or hate. An eater with exotic tastes could try the ostrich sausage. Everything goes well with batatacalabresa, small tender potatoes.
The bar staff may recommend the Brazilian wine J.P. from Rio Grande do Sul, though we caution that such a choice appeals more to the candy-sweet preferences of the carioca palate than the dry gringo one. We suggest the fabulous Terezópolis Gold lager or the Salinas cachaça (Brazilian rum) for national drinks.
“Japanese people come here and they eat!” says Martins, throwing his arms open wide, as though to indicate a gluttonous tourist chowing down. We’re happy to follow their lead.
Barcelona -- Inside Barcelona’s lesser-known Mercat de Les Corts is a small, unassuming bar offering up the bounty of the Mediterranean. El Bisaura opens up shop at 6:30 a.m., serving esmorzars de forquilla (hearty Catalan breakfasts like sausage and beans, tripe stew and grilled cuttlefish) to local workers. At lunch, it serves a more refined…
Madrid -- Sitting at a table in Lucio, a long-established tavern in the heart of Madrid’s most famous tapas street, is a singular experience that has a slightly surreal, Buñuel-esque touch. Queues formed of Madrid’s born-and-bred elite snake past the elegant wooden bar, the coiffed connoisseurs greeted with affection by the landlord himself as they…
Barcelona -- There are certain places that experience the strange phenomenon where everything and nothing change at the same time. Take the example of El Racó del Mariner (The Sailor’s Corner), located for 40 years at the old fishermen’s dock in the port of La Barceloneta until it was forced to move when the area…
Culinary Backstreets has updated its cookie policy. We use cookies to optimize site function, provide social media features and analyse our traffic. Some third-party social media sites may track your use of the CB website if you visit a page which contains their embedded content. If you continue without changing your settings, we'll assume that you are happy to receive all cookies served on the CB website. You can, however, opt out of being served cookies by adjusting your settings. Click to read our full privacy policy and user agreement. Privacy Policy
