Those familiar with Palermo’s cuisine tend to associate it with indulgent street food and a rich culinary heritage that doesn’t cut corners when it comes to taste – no matter the cost for one’s health. But tucked away down a slender side street that branches off of Palermo’s bustling Via Ruggero Settimo is A Casa di Francesco, a restaurant that meets the already high expectations around Palermo’s cuisine with a selection of innovative health-conscious dishes.
The restaurant started out in 2015 as a boutique supermarket offering health-conscious Sicilian products and vegetarian dishes to be eaten there or to take away – an idea that was far ahead of its time in Palermo. While vegetarian options were common at home, with simple vegetable-based recipes at the center of traditional cuisine—such as pasta alla Norma (a pasta dish served with fresh tomato sauce, fried eggplant, and salted ricotta) or caponata, (the Sicilian sweet-and-sour dish made of eggplants, tomatoes, olives, capers, and various aromatic herbs) well-balanced dishes for a healthy diet were hard to find in the city’s restaurants.
Linda Napoli, the owner, recognized an opportunity to enhance her customers’ dining experience by providing a space where they could linger and savor their meals. Responding to requests for a place to sit and eat, Linda saw a chance to showcase her finest recipes. This vision extended beyond serving simple snacks; it allowed for greater culinary creativity. Within a year, she transformed the store, reducing the space dedicated to ingredients to create more seating, expand the kitchen, and feature a large glass display case showcasing daily products and specials. The charming grocery shop evolved into a vibrant restaurant.
The result? A masterful blend of authentic Sicilian ingredients – such as chickpeas, sumac, and ricotta – transformed into vegetarian and plant-based dishes that honor the island’s rich culinary heritage. You’ll find creations like macco di ceci (chickpea macco), hummus with a sprinkle of sumac, and crostini (large slices of lightly toasted artisan bread) topped with ricotta, bitter oranges, toasted almonds, and cinnamon.
Linda’s ingenuity radiates through her dishes, taking local and seasonal ingredients – among them variations of tomato, zucchini, and beetroot – and turning them into alternatives to traditional meat-based recipes. “Our menu doesn’t dodge classics like lasagna or arancina,” Linda explains with a grin. “Rather, we reimagine them. Case in point: our ‘falso ragù,’ where traditional meat steps aside, yet the essence of flavor remains steadfast.”
To make her “fake ragù,” Linda uses a recipe close to the original, which includes celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes, and herbs. Instead of meat, Linda incorporates walnuts into her recipe. The nuts release oil when toasted and add valuable protein to the dish, making them the perfect substitute.
The eatery boldly transcends traditional boundaries, not only giving classic recipes a vegetarian twist but also introducing diners to lesser-known Sicilian vegetables such as round-leaved alexanders, watercress, cardogna, and onopordon. Linda explains, “As Sicily has become a major tourist destination, some recipes, like pasta alla Norma and arancini, have been overexposed, overshadowing lesser-known ingredients that were once staples of Sicilian countryside cuisine but have been neglected.”
Reviving these ingredients is both an environmentally responsible choice and a gesture of political and social significance. It pays homage to lost flavors and the timeless essence of traditional cooking by sourcing locally and serving simple, traditional recipes that echo traditional cucina della nonna (grandmother’s cuisine), with rice, pasta, or grano siciliano (Sicilian wheat), accompanied by vegetables, olive oil, and locally sourced herbs like mint, basil, and sumac.
Since its start in 2021, the restaurant has expanded its team, with Linda’s partner, Dino, joining the ranks, as well as staff members Marco and Jessica. The tightly knit crew is united by a shared goal, to constantly devise novel culinary creations.
On our visit, Giovanni Pizzo, regular at A Casa di Francesco, shares, “As I’ve grown more mindful of my well-being, I’ve refused to compromise on flavor.” He nods toward his plate. “This place offers the perfect equilibrium…flavorsome dishes crafted from sustainable Sicilian bounty.”
At A Casa di Francesco, Sicilian products take center stage, yet the menu skillfully integrates diverse culinary traditions. This blend reflects the deep bond between siblings Linda and her brother, Ferdinando Napoli, also a cook currently based in Australia. Although Ferdinando now resides in Australia, his influence remains strong. To honor him and keep his presence felt, Linda added Pavlova, his favorite dessert, to the menu. This dessert quickly became one of their most popular items. The Pavlova symbolizes Sicily’s evolving culinary landscape, merging global influences with local specialties. It illustrates how Sicily’s cuisine has expanded beyond the historical influences of the Normans and Arabs to embrace flavors from as far afield as the Indian subcontinent and the Pacific Ocean, with this New Zealand/Australian classic adding a delightful international twist.
Linda’s ambition extends beyond mixing influences; it aims to revive forgotten or underutilized local ingredients. With an abundance of fruits, vegetables, and ancient grains in the region, the restaurant showcases Sicily’s capability to offer unique flavors naturally, without excess fat or pretension. Sicily’s culinary wealth shines through, harnessing the region’s abundant sunshine on every plate.
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