On our culinary walk of Osaka, we taste our way through the historic merchant district of Kitahama to Kuromon Market to the lively entertainment area of Dotonbori. We stop at kombu (kelp) shops, miso producers, fishmongers, and street food stalls to dive into the flavors that define Osaka cuisine, with a particular focus on the savory fifth taste: umami. Below, Culinary Backstreets correspondent Hikaru Kobayashi takes us behind the lens with photos of our newest food tour in Osaka.
While Osaka is known as the “Kitchen of Japan,” many outside the country are unaware of the storied history and diverse influences that have shaped its unique gastronomy. World War II destroyed much of Osaka, and the society changed significantly as well – but the spirit of the city remains intact in its markets, standing bars, and small independent restaurants.
This walk unveils the layers of Osaka’s kitchen, revealing how centuries of trade and a thriving merchant culture have shaped this playful, umami-driven culinary destination.
Crossing from Tenjinbashi-suji to Naniwa Bridge
These traditionally dressed figures guard the entrance to Tenjinbashi-suji Shopping Street, a 2.6-kilometer covered archway of shops and restaurants full of unimaginable goodies.
Centrally located and well-connected by train, Tenjinbashi-suji Shopping Street is always buzzing with locals and tourists checking out funky shops and places to eat.
Croquettes from stops like this one are a symbolic food of the shopping street, in that it’s a mixture of Western and Japanese food cultures as well as being a cheap and tasty street eat for merchants.
Even a chain soba noddle shop can feel mysterious in its simplicity; an unassuming exterior hides a cozy interior, a common occurrence in Osaka – which is often overlooked for its dazzlingly trendy big sister, Tokyo.
Worshippers write their prayers and wishes on wooden plaques, called ema. Many of these are likely seeking blessings on studies, as Osaka Tenmangu Shrine is dedicated to the scholar and poet, Sugawara no Michizane, who became a deity after his death.
For centuries, merchants in Osaka’s Sugawaracho have traded seaweed, sesame, and other dried foods. This tradition continues today, with a local shop in an old warehouse showcasing these lovingly handmade suribachi (mortar) and surikogi (pestle) for grinding sesame seeds.
Naniwa Bridge offers a unique perspective on Osaka. The city was once a center of trade and, from the bridge, you can spot buildings funded by merchant donations.
These honoichi are the signature rice-shaped sweets of a popular Osaka bakery, and inspired by the city’s history as a rice trading center.
In Osaka, old meets new: Traditional wooden townhouses stand in the shadow of modern high-rises.
A Taste of Kuromon Market
Handling fugu, the infamous pufferfish delicacy, requires years of training and precise knife skills. This sought-after dish can be found at certain fishmongers in Kuromon Market (ichiba).
Kuromon Ichiba is known for selling a wide variety of fresh produce, including seasonal fruits like these mikan みかん (mandarin oranges).
Inside a popular 70-year-old fish cake stop at Kuromon Ichiba.
A seafood seller grills a fresh catch at Kuromon Market.
This favorite spot began as a small sweets stall 50 years ago, but is now a local chain known for their takoyaki (octopus dough balls, a popular Japananese street food).
Simplicity at its finest: kake udon has a characteristic clear broth with just green onions (negi) as a garnish. This is the most basic form of udon, where the focus is on the flavor of the dashi broth and the texture of the noodles.
This udon, with massive piece of ebi tempura, is a textural delight. Chewy noodles and a crispy-fried shrimp.
Our tour has ended, and dusk falls over Dotonbori. But the adventure doesn’t stop here! We’ll be sharing more Osaka food photos and stories from the city, like this piece on Osaka by Night.
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Published on January 14, 2025
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