Editor’s Note: We asked Lee Chapman, a photographer who has been living in Japan since 1998, to give us a peek into the bright lights and warm locales of Osaka’s nighttime food scene. His photos have appeared in the Guardian, New Statesman, Spiegel Online, Japan Times and The Economist, plus numerous other print and online publications. He runs the photo blog Tokyo Times, which features his images exploring day-to-day life in Tokyo and occasionally other Japanese cities.

Osaka may be especially well known for its bright and busy Dotonburi district, but that same vibrancy is easily found all over the city, both in the people and urban scenery. It’s the same when it comes to the city’s nightlife, with no shortage of local eateries and street vendors to experience – places that are similarly appealing to photograph as well as step inside – whether it be a sit-down restaurant, a standing bar, or simply a spot to grab a quick snack when on the go. There is something special about wandering Osaka at night and seeing it come to life, including hidden gems that may have been easily overlooked in the daylight.

Locations that are made all the more memorable by the people who own and frequent them, as the general stereotype of Osaka natives being friendly and open invariably rings true, meaning eating spots are as convivial as they are colorful. It’s a combination that makes each and every night out in Osaka a fun and varied one.

Takoyaki shop

Takoyaki is impossible to ignore in Osaka, with shops and stalls selling the famous fried octopus balls here, there, and everywhere. They don’t, however, get any more local and down-to-earth than this little corner shop near Dobutsuen-mae station. The small red lantern and lights from one of the city’s ubiquitous vending machines make the place look warm and appealing despite its distinctly utilitarian appearance. The takoyaki are not only good, but incredibly cheap, with the added option of having them served soft or firm, making it the perfect spot for a quick bite to eat.

Naritaya

Right in front of the zoo-animal-decorated old shopping street entrance near Dobutsuen-Mae station sits Naritaya. When passed by during daylight hours, the faded and tattered awning, along with the structure’s very visibly crumbling nature, mean it’s hard to imagine the building is anything other than abandoned. Come the evening, however, when the rusted shutters are lifted, it’s a completely different story: a real splash of light and color, with the hodgepodge of tables and decorations making it a sight to behold. It’s an ideal spot to sit outside, have some oden – a popular local dish of veggies and fishcakes boiled in broth – with cheap sake, and watch the world walk by.

Standing bar

In the area around Kyobashi station, there’s no shortage of places to eat and drink. Whatever you want, or whatever kind of place you’re looking for, the area will very likely deliver. It’s also home to quite a few standing bars – something Osaka has in abundance. Needless to say, it’s an incredibly lively area, and the always busy Okamuro-saketen-chokubaisho perfectly encapsulates the district. In addition to all the izakaya favorites, along with a huge array of oden, there are more than enough options for both food and drinks. Everything is made even better by the friendly and often raucous atmosphere that invariably spills out onto the street, as there simply isn’t enough space inside for all those who want to enjoy the unique atmosphere.

Akichan

Not far from Kyobashi station, and a dash of charm against the rather soulless backdrop of nondescript apartment blocks, Akichan is a lovely little place to fill up on okonomiyaki and yakisoba. An old family-run place where you can not only enjoy good food and drinks, but also get a real sense of how much of Japan and Osaka once was, all of which you can take in from your counter seat while dishes are cooked on the hotplates in front of you. It’s definitely the place to be, especially on a cold winter evening – a real home away from home.

Notoya

Notoya, on the corner of one of the many old covered shopping streets in Nishinari ward, is as wonderfully dated as its surroundings. Serving the usual izakaya fare along with piping-hot oden, you can take a seat at the long counter and feel like you are in a very different time. Whether you choose to sit quietly with your own thoughts, or chat to your neighbors, the vibe is thoroughly relaxed. When in the mood for some more food, you can order from the items listed on the wall, or choose one of the pre-cooked dishes in the small refrigerated display. Either way, the proprietor will happily serve you just like she has countless other customers, over similarly countless years.

Yakitori bar

If you are lucky enough to squeeze inside Seseri Kabayaki Stand Hatori 2, or get a standing space along the counter that backs out onto the street, the food and atmosphere will not disappoint. Neither will the lovely and cold big bottles of Sapporo beer. It’s basically everything you could wish for in a back-to-basics downtown yakitori bar. The pieces of yakitori chicken are generous and juicy, all cooked on a traditional charcoal grill. This fabulous spot is right by the exit 4 of Dobutsuen-Mae station, and one that in so many ways encapsulates this more rough and ready side of Osaka.

Horumon Nakachan

Horumon Nakachan is a well-known spot on the old shopping street just down from Dobutsuen-Mae station. It opens from 3 p.m. on weekdays and at 12 p.m. on holidays, and if you aren’t there before then, it’s more than likely you’ll have to wait. It’s standing room only, though, so you won’t have to be patient for too long, and even if you do end up standing in line, you can spend the time marveling at the eatery’s wonderfully gritty nature. It’s about as down-to-earth as it comes, with the food practically cooked on the street. And the food, as the name suggests, is offal. So if that’s your thing, and you want a real taste of older Osaka, then Horumon Nakachan is the place to go.

Atchichi Honpo

This eatery might not be a small or family-run place like the others, but the Tobita Shinchi branch of Atchichi Honpo looks absolutely terrific at night against the backdrop of dark, dreary looking apartment blocks. The restaurant serves as a very welcome dash of color, warmth, and wonderful smells. As the signage suggests, takoyaki is the main offering, but there are many other snack options too, as well as numerous drinks to wash them all down. For added color of a very different kind, it’s also situated right next to the city’s most famous red light district, making the walk there and back an experience, to say the least.

Lee ChapmanLee Chapman

Published on February 03, 2025

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