Día de Muertos brings many delights to the senses: the bright orange hues of marigolds filling the streets; the unmistakable scent of freshly baked pan de muerto as we step into a bakery. But the Day of the Dead also brings the comforting softness and many iterations of tamales – a treat that many of us quickly associate with Día de la Candelaria in February, but which are also a tradition of this beloved fall holiday.
Tamales, whose name comes from the náhuatl word tamalli, which means “wrapped,” are one of the most iconic dishes in Mexican gastronomy. Born from corn, Mexico’s sacred ingredient, they are unbelievably versatile – there are around 500 types of tamales in Mexico alone. From oaxaqueños, wrapped in plantain leaves, to sweet tamales, sometimes made of fruit or boasting a bright pink hue, they are the ultimate comfort food and the perfect meal to serve during parties and celebrations.
Since pre-Hispanic times, tamales have been prepared as an offering to the dead, and are a staple dish around harvest season, served as a gesture of gratitude for the Earth’s bounty, and prepared using freshly harvested corn. So, like many elements of our culture, their importance in Día de Muertos (as the day is actually referred to in Mexico, without “los”) is the result of centuries of complex and fascinating amalgamation.
According to the INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History) the origins of Día de Muertos can be traced back to Catholic traditions in Medieval Europe, as people celebrated All Saints Day on November 1 – dedicated to saints, martyrs, and unnamed saints – and All Souls Day on November 2 – for mere mortals who did not reach sainthood, but deserved to rest in Christ nonetheless. These customs reached our country shortly after the Spanish conquest, eventually blending with indigenous customs, as both cultures believed in honoring their dearly departed. History tells us that Spanish friars tried to stop the indigenous tradition of setting up an ofrenda, or altar, at home, as funerary practices were only supposed to happen at church, but they were unsuccessful, and the custom continued.
Over the years, we continue to celebrate this unique blend of cultures and traditions. On Día de Muertos, some may visit their loved ones at the cemetery; others may want to partake in events like parades or parties; others might set up ofrendas at home, displaying photos, candles, flowers, and of course, some of their loved ones’ favorite drinks and dishes, celebrating their lives and waiting for their souls visit during the festivities. Whether as part of the ofrenda or a shared family meal, tamales are ideal for large communal gatherings like Día de Muertos, as anthropologist Jorge Martínez told Mural.
One of the most beautiful aspects of Mexican culture and cuisine is how elements change from one region to another. Tamales – and their Día de Muertos versions – are no exception. In the Yucatán Peninsula, Hanal Pixán, or “Feast of the Souls” in Maya, keeps the bond between the dead and the living alive through food and drink, as the Maya believe the soul to be immortal. The festivities include three altars, featuring elements like salt and water for purification, and the iconic mucbipollo. This hearty tamal is made with corn masa, stuffed with chicken, seasoned with tomato and chili, and wrapped in plantain leaves.
Over in Misantla, Veracruz, tamales misantecos are mandatory during celebrations like Día de Muertos. The secret to these tamales is dried chili, a type of dried, smoked jalapeño from the Jalapa and Misantla regions. Mixed with tomatoes and garlic, it makes for a unique sauce that locals mix with pork ribs and tuck alongside a portion of masa inside a papatla or plantain leaf.
For a truly communal experience, people in Hidalgo’s Huasteca region cook the zacahuil, also known as “giant tamal.” According to legend, during pre-Hispanic times, those who committed sexual crimes received a pretty harsh punishment: they were killed, and their flesh was to be prepared in a Zacahuil. Luckily, modern iterations feature beef, chicken, or pork. The masa is bathed in a dried chili sauce before wrapping it in a plantain leaf and cooking it for hours in a wood-fired oven.
Whatever your tamal of choice, its soul remains the same: a dish with a deep connection to Mexican folklore and traditions, and most of all, a dish meant to be shared with loved ones – even those who might not be physically here.
Mexico City Tamal Tour
Tamales Madre: Dedicated to the art of masa and nixtamal, the team at this adorable spot in Colonia Juárez uses only creole corn to build a constantly rotating menu featuring fresh ingredients. Along with creations like a coconut tamal, try the Día de Muertos seasonal special: a traditional pumpkin and dried shrimp tamal from Tuxpan, Veracruz.
Las Polas: This beloved family-run Del Valle spot is one of the city’s temples of traditional Yucatán cuisine. Head to Las Polas to try their classic mucbipollo, honoring Hanal Pixán. Make sure to save room for dessert – the corn cake, made with the family recipe, is a warm hug for the heart.
Doña Vero: Social media sensation Doña Vero is known for her “traditional and extravagant” fare – think ostrich quesadillas and wild boar tlayudas. If you have a sweet tooth, head to Doña Vero for a blackberries-and-cream tamal, best paired with her seasonal marigold pulque, made with pulque from Hidalgo and flowers from Xochimilco.
Molino El Pujol: The entire menu at this cozy, casual Condesa outpost of the renowned Pujol revolves around nixtamalized corn, including tacos, chilaquiles, and tortillas to take home. Try the black bean tamal with bean paste, avocado leaf, quesillo, and tomato salsa, or the roasted carrot tamal bathed in red mole.
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Published on November 01, 2024
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