2022 has been another challenging year in countries around the world. Mexico is no exception, but here in Mexico City we’ve seen our megalopolis gradually return to the normal chaos we are used to. We were happy to see museums opening their doors, busy neighborhoods, streets teeming with people, businesses coming back to life, tourists in the trendy barrios and colonias, and more tour requests as Covid-19 restrictions were lifted little by little.
People seemed anxious to get back out in the streets, parks and open spaces. Probably one of the few good things about the lockdown here was that many restaurants were allowed to set up tables on the sidewalks or even on the streets. It was nice to take advantage of the magnificent year-round sunny weather Mexico City is well known for, and to see people enjoying food and drinks where parked cars used to be.
Now, as the year comes to a close, Mexico City feels almost completely recovered from the emotional and economic damage it has endured. The city has overcome all kinds of natural disasters and pandemics, and it still stands for those who want to see the best parts of it: the energy and kindness of its hard working people and the amazing culinary experiences only México City can offer.
Cemitas at Salón Mezcalli
On the road south of the capital is the city of Puebla and Salón Mezcalli, a bar where you can find all kinds of mezcales including those crafted locally in the state of Puebla. In addition to the drinks is a great food selection and you can really enjoy a whole meal at the bar. Talented young chef Liz Galicia has designed a menu with classic antojitos poblanos, traditional snacks from Puebla. One of my favorite bites of this year was, without any doubt: the cemita.
Salón Mezcalli’s cemita – a sandwich stacked on a bread roll of the same name – is medium sized; not too big, not too small. The combination of flavors is delicate but delicious: pápalo, an edible green used since pre-hispanic times, plays a main role in this version, followed by breaded beefsteak (milanesa), prepared carefully and served generously, as it should be in any good cemita. The bread is only made in Puebla. This is definitely the kind of bite you must enjoy in the city in which it was born.
Huitlacoche Rostizado at Tetetlán
Not far from the UNESCO World Heritage-designated campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), there is a house designed and built in 1947 by famous Mexican architect and Pritzker awardee Luis Barragán. Formerly known as casa de Pietro López (the original owner’s name), now Casa Pedregal, the house is open to the public. After a very interesting restoration, today the house serves as a cultural center complete with a boutique with local crafts such as ceramics, jewelry, textiles and books, and a restaurant called Tetetlán.
Tetetlán’s setting in the property’s former stables couldn’t be more spectacular. Inspired by the architect’s original design which was very mindful of nature, just being there gives you a sense of deep relaxation. I can’t tell you more because you have to go and see every detail for yourself!
The restaurant, directed by young chef Gustavo Alonso, offers a very nice menu in which most of the dishes use either prehispanic or native ingredients. Our favorite in 2022 was the Huitlacoche Rostizado. The plate of corn arrives with three mysterious dots of sauce which you have to taste to learn what they are. Each combines perfectly with the amazing flavor of the roasted corn sprinkled with sea salt: roasted pineapple puree, roasted apple puree and truffled hollandaise sauce. ¡Buen provecho!
El Asador del Cabrito y Carnes Asadas, Monterrey
Culinary Backstreets Mexico City hit the road during fall to visit the industrial city of Monterrey, famous for its cabrito – roasted goat kid – and Héctor Gómez, the man known among locals as the Master of Cabrito. Goats were introduced to northeast Mexico during the 16th century by Spanish colonizers. The tradition of cabrito in this region of Mexico has its origin in the coexistence between Spanish, Portuguese and Jewish families.
Gómez’s place is located very close to Macroplaza, the bustling heart of Monterrey. Héctor has been making cabrito “all his life,” and says that the secret to his success is to give personal attention to every one of his customers. Here, you feel like you’re enjoying a carnita asada with a friend. Cabrito is truly the taste of Monterrey ¡Sí señor!
Enchiladas Verdes from Cocina Laurita
Cocina Laurita is one of several eateries known as fondas located inside the public market of Azcapotzalco. It is no secret that you can find comida corrida, filling, low-price lunches, at every market in the México City megalopolis, where you can enjoy a meal that feels as if you were eating at home with Mom.
Cocina Laurita is, nevertheless, one of a kind. The kitchen is run by Saúl Guevara, who inherited the business from his mother. Taking care of the customers who sit at the small tables set in the market corridors are Juanita and Michelle, Saul’s wife and daughter.
The line for a chair at Cocina Laurita’s (where the comida corrida is 70 pesos) starts very early. Attended mainly by locals shopping at the market and by vendors themselves, the small place is one of the most popular. The secret here, I would say, is generosity and abundance. It is affordable for families, plus you know you will leave full, happy and satisfied – ready to keep on going!
The comida corrida changes every day, but Saúl’s enchiladas verdes are always on the menu board. First you have a bowl of chicken soup, then rice or spaghetti as a second. For the guisado, the main course, Juanita or Michelle set the glorious enchiladas verdes in front of you: three slightly fried tortillas stuffed with lots of shredded chicken, drowned in a delicious green tomato salsa, topped with raw onion slices, queso fresco and mucha crema.
– Francisco de Santiago
Soy Arrachera Tacos at Malportaco
My first bite of the soy arrachera taco at Malportaco will forever be the moment that created a before and after in my search for vegan food in Mexico City. Full disclosure: I’m not a vegan, but I am someone who appreciates a perfectly seasoned taco, and someone who wants meat-free dining options for the good of the planet and the good of my stomach.
Generally I have been disappointed in vegan food in the city, and vegan Chef Selena at Malportaco agrees with me, saying that more often than not her search for good vegan food here has come up short. But this chef and her fantastic team have created by far the best meat-free tacos and dishes in the metropolis and absolutely everything I have tasted on the menu is in a league of its own.
Set up in Narvarte, one of the neighborhoods Culinary Backstreets has predicted as an up-and-coming area that will soon draw visitors out of the ever-popular Roma and Condesa, Malportaco is more than a decade old but still under the radar for many diners. The location is intimate, with colored ribbons dangling from the patio that slowly wave over wooden dining tables and a room full of locals that appreciate the culinary excellence of this kitchen.
The placentero taco with wheat chicharrón has the perfect crunchy consistency and the pancita soup with mushrooms may make you completely forget its original incarnation made of beef stomach. Malportaco is by far my best new discovery in the culinary banquet that is Mexico’s capital, and here’s hoping that many restaurants will follow in its footsteps.
– Lydia Carey
Published on December 16, 2022
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