As one of the world’s most densely populated urban centers, Mexico City can feel intimidating at first; the hustle and bustle is as inspiring as it is exhausting.
To better understand the complex cultural identity of this vibrant megacity, where pre-Hispanic, colonial, and contemporary influences collide, we organized a five-day trip “Layer by Layer: A Mexico City Culinary Adventure.”
Led by veteran Culinary Backstreets guide and Mexico City native Paco de Santiago, this unique trip gives a broader understanding of the city’s natural landscape and intimate culinary traditions. Through Paco’s personal anecdotes and encyclopedic knowledge of Mexican culture, the group was able to better understand the harmony as well as the dissonance that define this layered city.
We asked CB photographer PJ Rountree to join the trip and share his perspective on this wide-ranging experience, which is being offered again in May 2020.
Xochimilco: Aztec Agricultural Traditions Live On
In what remains of the vast lakes that once covered the Valley of Mexico, the Aztec tradition of manmade islands – or chinampas – for farming purposes continues to this day.
Ricardo Rodríguez, CB’s Xochimilco expert, explains the agricultural techniques used in the area that allow for up to seven harvests a year.
We float in our trajinera boat along the canals while snacking on tacos de guisado with mole, rajas with cream, chorizo and potato, and more.
One corridor of the Xochimilco market offers freshly pressed tortillas and handmade gorditas and tlacoyos made with various kinds of heirloom maíz.
Nocturnal Taco Tour
A skilled pastorero slices the lightly charred marinated pork at our first stop.
Stay warm huddled around tacos de suadero at another late night spot.
These taco maestros are taking full advantage of their hot wood-fired grill.
Like the other spots on this night tour, the tacos here are enjoyed standing up with however much spicy salsa you can handle.
Pulque On The Farm in Milpa Alta
Still within city limits, Paco took us to a rural mountain town in the Milpa Alta county in southern Mexico City.
Don Lauro, a local farmer, invited us to explore his small farm, which was sprouting with every type of fruit and vegetable imaginable.
Don Lauro shows us some freshly harvested heirloom maíz, which comes in many colors.
Don Lauro’s granddaughter pours us thick, freshly fermented pulque sweetened with guava. The pulque was made from sap from a maguey plant, collected by Don Lauro that morning.
Mercado Jamaica: Bright Colors And Flavors
The Jamaica Market (not far from the Centro Histórico) serves as the city’s primary flower market. It gets especially crowded around major religious holidays like Day of the Dead or the Christmas season.
Among the flowers, fruits and veggies are some of the tastiest food stalls the city has to offer.
For something sweet, chew on some candied fruits and veggies. They offer cucumber, beet, cactus paddle, and even a poblano pepper stuffed with coconut.
The sensory overload that Mercado Jamaica offers is the perfect culmination of our experience learning more about Mexico City and its culture.
Spaces are available on our five-day “Layer by Layer: A Mexico City Culinary Adventure” trips in May 2020.
April 11, 2023 L’Après M: Fast Social Food
At a booth bathed in the winter sun, a group of coworkers happily munch burgers and […] Posted in Marseille
May 31, 2021 La Parra
Dust, sweat, rain, and severe sun – these were only a few of the many discomforts that […] Posted in Barcelona
August 15, 2018 Film Feasts
To say that Athens gets hot in the summer is an understatement. Many Athenians escape to […] Posted in Athens
Published on February 07, 2019
Related stories
April 11, 2023
MarseilleAt a booth bathed in the winter sun, a group of coworkers happily munch burgers and frites. Behind them, a toddler claps with glee as his mom hands him a meal in a colorful box. Two teens bypass the counter to punch in their order at the giant phone-like kiosk. Customers in cars wait in…
May 31, 2021
BarcelonaDust, sweat, rain, and severe sun – these were only a few of the many discomforts that travelers of yore suffered as they made the long journey in horse-drawn carriages from their home provinces to Barcelona. In those days – around a century or two ago – the city was protected by fortified walls; it was…
August 15, 2018
AthensTo say that Athens gets hot in the summer is an understatement. Many Athenians escape to the islands, preferring a sea breeze to the sweltering city. But for those stuck in the concrete jungle, a classic way to cool down is to visit one of the city’s many open-air cinemas – also called summer cinemas…
