Walking among the stalls of Mercado Coyoacán is as exhilarating as it is slightly overwhelming: mountains of fresh fruit, rows of piñatas hanging from the ceiling, chocolate-covered scorpions, and mystical candles that promise to bring love and fortune all coexist in this sprawling space. The familiar phrase, “¿Qué va a llevar?” (What are you buying?) echoes down each aisle, but as tempting as it is to bite into a creamy slice of mamey – a sweet, orange-fleshed fruit that has plenty of fans in Mexico – we are here with one mission: to eat our weight in tostadas.
The market is in the heart of Coyoacán, one of Mexico City’s most whimsical neighborhoods. With cobblestone streets, coffee shops, art galleries, and boutiques, it’s especially popular for weekend visits. Even before we can see the bright yellow banners that surround the tostada stands, we are being beckoned by servers, promising the best tostadas in town (which they are). About a dozen stalls make up the Tostadas Coyoacán empire, with simple counter-and-stool set-ups that make customer rotation easy. The best seat in the house is in front of one of the cooking areas, where you can witness the tostada action in all its glory.
Legend has it that the origins of Tostadas Coyoacán take us more than 60 years back when the late Ernestina Hernández opened her stand called La Chaparrita, where she sold vegetables and legumes. Eventually, she expanded the business with tostadas, a dish that is now essentially a synonym for the market. To those in need of a refresher, tostadas are flat, fried tortillas that can be topped with anything from chicken to beans or seafood. And here in Coyoacán, the possibilities are endless.
Above us, large banners serve as a menu, complete with photos of each tostada and its description in Spanish and English. But even better than looking at the pictures is watching the live show in front of us, as the prep cook swiftly slathers beans on each tostada, scoops up toppings like shrimp cocktail and chicken tinga (shredded chicken in a tomato-based sauce), and slices avocado after avocado.
When our server places a pen and a small piece of paper in front of us, we’ve seen enough to decide. She picks up the note and calls out the order to the prep cook: “¡Ensalada rusa, camarón, jaiba, pastor!” This same dynamic is happening all around us, yet no cook or server seems to be thrown off their game by the constant ingredient calling. Minutes later, our first batch of tostadas lands in front of us, along with a few small plastic containers with assorted salsas: verde, habanero, roja, and Valentina.
The parade of tostadas starts with ensalada rusa, the classic potato-pea-carrot combo with mayo. Topped with shredded lettuce, avocado, cream, and cheese, it’s a mildly flavored, creamy concoction, perfect as a starter before we dive into stronger flavors. The shrimp and jaiba (crabmeat) are simply cooked with onions and tomatoes, bringing a taste of the sea to the middle of the city.
Polishing off four tostadas seems like just the beginning, as does asking for extra napkins a couple of times. Tostadas are messy: You get cream on your face, and cheese in your hands, and the thing will likely fall apart halfway through. But there’s no room for protocol here, nor is there a need to pretend like we don’t want four more.
While the tostada de pata (pork feet) is one of the most popular items, the jiggly texture is not for everyone. For our second round, we ask our server for other favorites like cochinita pibil (pork marinated in achiote, a reddish spice extracted from achiote tree seeds), camarón especial (shrimp cocktail), chicken, and mushrooms, all of which caught our eye in the prep area, now protected behind glass as a post-Covid measure.
As we bite into the fresh shrimp and juicy mushrooms, the crowd around us starts to grow. It’s 2 p.m., prime lunchtime in Mexico, and a lovely mix of families, couples, visitors, and solo diners are gathering around the counters – a perfect reflection of how diverse the city is – all of them brought together through the messy ritual of eating tostadas.
Cristina AlonsoAndrew Reiner
Published on September 25, 2023
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