During the winter months, we all like to curl up and hibernate a bit with our favorite calorie-packed, stick-to-the-bones comfort food. In France, that might be a cassoulet, which has its origins in Castelnaudary, a town in the Occitanie region. Or perhaps a boeuf bourguignon from the Burgundy region in eastern France, or a gratin dauphinois from the Dauphiné region in the country’s southeast. Here in Marseille, we often enjoy a big bowl of coucsous, brought to the city from Tunisia or Algeria and prepared in local eateries by the restaurateurs of Maghrebi heritage. All of these dishes are crave-worthy, but the king of kings, a simple dish that practically everyone will show up for when invited, is the fondue Savoyarde from the Savoie region in the French Alps.
Because this hot, cheesy treat is definitely not a traditional Marseillais dish, we simply bring it to town. During wintertime, many local fromageries and épicéries offer a to-go fondue, complete with the cheese and a loaner fondue maker. One of our favorite spots that offers this specialty is Sistaou, a small épicérie in the Camas neighborhood of Marseille.
Caroline and Anne-Laure Pierre, sisters from Aix en Provence and Sistaou’s owners, opened their shop about two years ago. The sisters had a very different life just a few years prior to their new venture. Caroline was previously a lawyer and Anne-Laure worked in human resources, and though both lived in Paris, they admit that they didn’t see much of one another. They wanted to make a change, so they decided to go back to school – Caroline studied to become a fromagère (expert in cheese) and Anne-Laure studied cuisine.
After their studies, they set a goal to open a business together. The sisters say that because they come from a very large Provençal family who all cooked together, it became evident to them that they wanted to do something that involved food. They have many wonderful childhood memories that inspired their business, from their grandparents’ garden, to the big family dinners around a long table, but a favorite that stands out is that of their grandmother cooking her roast chicken with pasta and gravy. Carolina and Anne-Laure set their sights on Marseille because it is in Provence, offers good quality produce, is close to the sea, and close to their family.
Sistaou is a word the pair made up, a combination of the word “sisters” and the letters a-o-u, which is a traditional Provençal ending. The shop’s name is an homage to their childhood: when they were children, their nickname was Les Sis (“the sisters”). Caroline describes their work together as “main dans la main,” or hand-in-hand. Anne-Laure oversees the kitchen and is the lead chef and Caroline manages the shop, works as the fromagère, and handles the administrative duties.
When we arrive at Sistaou, Caroline hands over a box filled with grated cheese and the fondue maker, all ready to go. She expertly explains the nuances of the French fondue Savoyarde and the Swiss fondue, the main difference being that the French version is made with a blend of three to four cheeses, all from Savoie, such as Emmental de Savoie IGP, Beaufort d’été AOP, Abondance Fermier AOP, Meule Jaune de Savoie, sometimes Tomme de Savoie or any combination of these.* Emmental is typically used to lend a gooey, stringy texture to the fondue. The rest is easy: use a white wine from Savoie, one that you will also drink! The Swiss fondue, meanwhile, is by rule made with 50 percent Gruyére Swiss AOP and 50 percent Vacherin Fribourgeois AOP. Swiss fondue has a stronger taste than the French Savoyarde and is not as thick or stringy.
It seems the French are in agreement that the only acceptable bread used to dip in the fondue is a day-old baguette. You cut the bread before so that it can dry. It needs to be hard so that it doesn’t fall apart in the fondue. There’s a heated debate about which other ingredients you can dip into the fondue. The French insist that it’s strictly bread. Others say you can use potatoes, some say you can use apples, but we were teased by our local friends when we put these on the plate!
To make the fondue, rub a fondue pot with raw garlic and discard and add about 1 cup or so of the wine and bring to a boil for a minute or two. Next, reduce the heat, add the cheese and stir with a wooden spoon until it is completely melted, about 20-30 minutes. Then add a little nutmeg and black pepper. Another option is to add about 1/4 cup kirsch. Put the bread on your fork and start dipping!
The next day, after stuffing ourselves down to the very last gooey morsel, we pack up the fondue pot to return and to chat a bit with the sisters. In addition to the excellent fondue, Sistaou offers a range of treats to be enjoyed year-round, such as virgin olive oils from Italy, pastas and canned tuna. The cheese selection is, of course, impeccable. Caroline and Anne-Laure are very busy with the business, but when they can, they make visits to the producers, selecting cheeses from regions all around France. They make homemade sandwiches daily, including a favorite called the Prince de Paris, stuffed with jambon blanc, cornichons, Comte cheese, and butter. There is a fridge with riz au lait (rice pudding) and an entire counter with to-go options like lasagne, quiche, and fennel salad, all made in-house. We visit the shop often to pick up a bite to bring home for lunch or dinner, but we know that at least once during the winter, a pot of fondue Savoyarde from Sistaou will be on our list.
* (The IGP label, Indication Géographique Protégée, signifies that the cheese is produced and processed in a specific region known for its distinct production techniques and geographical advantages and The AOP label, Appellation d’Origine Protégée, indicates that the cheese has been produced according to traditional methods within a specific geographic area.)
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