For a large part of the world, eating cold noodles is one of the best ways to beat the sweltering heat of the summer, whether the strands are served with a dipping sauce or sitting in an ice cold broth. The history of cold noodles may not be as well studied as the history of the noodle itself, but we can imagine people have been eating cold noodles for as long as noodles have been around when the weather warms up.

Somen is believed to be the oldest Japanese noodle (circa the 700s) and is typically served cold with a dipping sauce. In Korea, a cold noodle soup called naengmyeon has been around since the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897). The most popular version is the mul naengmyeon that came from Pyongyang, where the beef broth is mixed with dongchimi brine for a tart and refreshing touch. With all the world’s cuisines represented here in Los Angeles, there are a number of places to enjoy a bowl of cold noodles. Here are some of our favorite spots and dishes to check out this summer.

Naengmyeon at Yu Chun

When talking about Korean cold noodles or naengmyeon in Los Angeles, Yu Chun is a name that always comes up. It’s a casual and traditional eatery that looks like one you may find on the streets of Korea. Yu Chun gets pretty busy, but the service is brisk. There is a self-serve counter for guests to grab their own water and warm broth. Yu Chun’s chic mul naengmyeon noodles are made with arrowroot starch, which gives the noodles a darker color and a chewier texture. They sit in an icy cold and tangy broth topped with cucumber, radish, a couple slices of beef and half of a hard-boiled egg. It’s served in a traditional stainless steel bowl that helps keep it cold while customers gulp it down.

Mul naengmyun in beet kimchi broth at Sulga House of Beef Bone Soup

As the name suggests, Sulga touts their beef bone soup, but on warmer days, you’ll find bowls of pink cold noodles on the tables of customers, most of whom are chatting away in Korean. The cold noodles, or mul naengmyun, at Sulga take on a California touch and photogenic look with the addition of beets, which are not native to Korea.

In general, noodles for naengmyun can be made from various starches, though buckwheat is the most common. Sulga makes theirs with wild yam, which lends to the bouncy texture. The noodles are served in the ice cold and vibrant pink broth made with brisket broth combined with dongchimi brine made from radish and beets. It’s then garnished with slices of radish and pear.

Cold sesame somen at Kodo

The newly opened Kodo is a modern izakaya in the Arts District, and while known for their great sushi and robata, don’t overlook the “shime” section of the menu, which means the last dish to finish a meal. This section is made up of rice and noodle dishes, and I recommend the cold sesame somen. Perfect for people who love the nutty flavors of sesame, the thin somen noodles are topped with slices of raw hiramasa sashimi and tomatoes, then covered in a sauce made with sesame paste and dashi. It’s savory but still light, and doesn’t overwhelm the raw fish.

Mul hwe with noodles at Jail Joa

Jail Joa is a jail-themed restaurant in Koreatown that serves a raw fish dish called mul hwe, or “water sashimi.”  It’s originally a dish for fishermen in the Southeastern coast of Korea and consists of sashimi bathed in a spicy, cold broth and thin noodles are typically added. A quick, easy meal for the tired fisherfolk, variations of mul hwe are now popular in coastal cities like Busan. The mul hwe at Jail Joa is made with slices of tuna, salmon and squid, and topped with a salad of cucumber, cabbage, radish and other vegetables. A cold vinegar gochujang sauce is then poured over it. You can enjoy mul hwe like a salad, or for a full meal, we recommend adding thin noodles for $3.

Cold lime somen at Yakiniku Osen

You may think that Yakiniku Osen is all about the grilled meats and the A5 wagyu, but the restaurant actually offers a very refreshing cold lime somen. This somen is served in a cold, light dashi and tsuyu broth with lime slices, onion, ginger and wasabi (bonus: it’s vegetarian). There were quite a few lime slices in the bowl, but the sour flavor from the citrus is nicely balanced by the savory broth. It’s a great palate cleanser in between all the grilled meats, or you can have it a la carte for a light meal on a hot day.

Hiyashi Chuka at Saikai Ramen Bar

The history of hiyashi chuka is a more recent one, as this dish is believed to have originated at a Chinese restaurant in Tokyo in 1929. Hiyashi chuka is typically made with chilled ramen noodles topped with slices of tamagoyaki, cucumber, tomatoes, some sort of meat and other vegetables. The one at Saikai Ramen Bar is made using spinach noodles and topped with poached shrimp, edamame, tamagoyaki, corn, cucumber, red onions and carrots with a yuzu soy dressing on the side. Saikai only serves the hiyashi chuka seasonally, so be sure to get yours while the weather is warm.

Jade Noodles at Sapp Coffee Shop

This old school, no-frills shop in Thai Town may be known for their boat noodle soups (no, not for their coffee), but personally I return time and again for the jade noodles, regardless of the season – to be fair, it’s almost always warm in Los Angeles.

Jade noodles (ba mee yok) are typical street food in Thailand, and while it’s not quite “cold noodles” when compared to the icy cold naengmyeon, the noodles are served dry and can be eaten at room temperature. Thin egg noodles are dyed green with spinach and then served with BBQ pork, roast duck, and shredded crab meat. On one side of the bowl is a small pile of ground peanuts and chili powder to mix in, and there’s a light sprinkle of sugar. Mix well and be sure to add a squeeze of lime to brighten up the flavors even more.

Published on September 01, 2022

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