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Roughly a year ago, José, the owner of Das Flores, was heartbroken: he had just received an eviction notice demanding that he close the restaurant. And it’s not like he hadn’t been paying his rent – he had, but there were plans to transform the whole building into a luxury hotel. That has become a common occurrence in Lisbon’s recent history: closing an old family-owned business to make way for something more profitable to its landlords.

Only this time the story had a different ending. With the help of a lawyer, José managed to keep his doors open. At least for the time being. He’s now a happier host, running the place behind the counter with his business-as-usual mindset.

Like most tascas in Lisbon, Das Flores is completely family operated. José’s wife, Carminda, does all the cooking and his daughter, Susana, waits the tables, consistently demonstrating a special talent in fitting all the regulars and passersby into a small venue.

She needs every bit of that talent as Das Flores is often featured in guides to the city’s best restaurants, next to Michelin-starred establishments and Michelin wannabes. It’s what one would call a poorly kept secret. So poorly kept, in fact, that booking a table is mandatory, unless the plan is to have a very early or very late lunch.

But unlike some of Lisbon’s poorly kept secrets, Das Flores hasn’t changed one bit since it rose to fame. José has been in charge for 40 years now, and he likes to do things a certain way. (The right way, he says.) That means not using frozen ingredients – ever – and buying most of his produce from the sellers at the neighboring Ribeira Market. He has known most of them for decades.

Carminda’s talent is undeniable, particularly in the frying department. The pastéis de bacalhau (cod cakes) served with tomato rice every Thursday are magnificent: golden on the outside, creamy on the inside, with just the right balance of cod and potato. The pataniscas (cod fritters) and the veal croquettes are also remarkably well done. On Tuesdays they are served as a main dish, but it’s also possible to order them as an appetizer.

Those who aren’t fond of fried foods have a few other fine choices each day. Whether it’s duck rice (Monday), rabbit stew (Thursday) or the famous cozido à portuguesa (Portuguese boiled dinner), a mix of boiled meats, sausages and vegetables, which is served every other Wednesday, but only during the colder months of the year, from November to March.

Desserts are homemade and a must as well. First-timers should definitely ask for the farófias, a traditional poached meringue. Second-timers may try the leite-creme (crème brûlée). By the third time, Susana will try to guess the customer’s selection. And she’ll probably be right.

Editor’s note: This piece is part of our regular feature, Tasca Tables, which covers Lisbon’s tasca scene. Tiago Pais is the author of “The 50 Best Tascas of Lisbon.”

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Maria Rebelo

Published on October 04, 2016

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