We like to think of İnciraltı, a laid-back meyhane in the sleepy Bosphorus-side Beylerbeyi neighborhood, as a destination restaurant – not so much because of the food, but because of the destination itself.
Not that there’s anything wrong with the food here, which is reliably well made. The meze tray at İnciraltı (which means “under the fig tree” in Turkish) is brought to your table carrying all the classics, plus a few welcome and tasty surprises, such as the zingy brined twigs of the caper plant and a sea bass fillet that has been cured in a piquant sauce redolent of curry.
From the hot starters, the beyin tava are highly recommended. Dipped in an eggy batter and fried crisp, think of this, texturally, as a custard tempura, in which the custard is, of course, lamb brains. From the offal side of the menu, which is particularly rich here, we also noted such rarities as dalak dolma, stuffed and fried spleen, though we did not try it. We did eat the meltingly soft uykuluk (sweetbreads), which were grilled and dusted with oregano and red pepper.
For the main course we had an excellent sea bass wrapped in vine leaves and grilled. When in season, sardalya (sardines) are done the same way. The house-made köfte is a safe bet to share: plump, juicy meatballs served with fresh-cut French fries. Honestly, though, this is not the place where you want to make a fast break for the bill to make it home for the evening news. Another round of drinks is a much better idea.
But it’s İnciraltı’s location that will have us coming back, especially if we’re looking for an opportunity to take an excursion without leaving Istanbul. Located on the Bosphorus’s Asian side, Beylerbeyi is like a miniature and untouristed version of the more popular Ortaköy neighborhood on the European side, mercifully free of the tchotchke vendors and crowds that today line Ortaköy’s narrow streets. Stepping off the evening ferry from Eminönü at Beylerbeyi’s old wooden one-room ferry terminal feels a bit like stepping back in time. There are few Bosphorus-side neighborhoods that have managed to keep their unpretentious original charm the way this one has.
İnciraltı, meanwhile, is located inside a welcoming old house on a small side street a few steps away from the ferry terminal. In the back there’s a leafy garden (home to the restaurant’s namesake fig tree) that, like Beylerbeyi itself, has a transporting quality to it. On a recent night, we found it to be one of the better places in town to forget about Istanbul’s hustle and bustle and to get away from the city’s summer heat.
This review was originally published on Istanbul Eats on August 30, 2010, but has been updated to reflect recent visits.
(Note: To reach Beylerbeyi, take the Bosphorus commuter ferry that leaves from Eminönü. Check the schedule here: www.sehirhatlari.com.tr.)
May 29, 2014 Çukur Meyhane
Editor's note: The departure of Aret, our favorite garson in the city, had us […] Posted in Istanbul
July 22, 2013 Cibalikapı Balıkçısı
On a night out in Istanbul, we often find ourselves forced to make sacrifices in one or […] Posted in Istanbul
November 26, 2012 Asmalı Cavit
We can’t prove it, but we suspect a network of tunnels lies underground in Beyoğlu that […] Posted in Istanbul
Published on October 02, 2015
Related stories
May 29, 2014
IstanbulEditor's note: The departure of Aret, our favorite garson in the city, had us reconsidering our love of this little cubbyhole meyhane where we've spent so many nights over the years. With our loyalty to Aret and his to us, would it not be cheating to return to Çukur when Aret now runs his own place just a few…
July 22, 2013
IstanbulOn a night out in Istanbul, we often find ourselves forced to make sacrifices in one or more categories of the overall dining experience. Great food at reasonable prices will surely be laid out in a room decorated in Anatolian kitsch. Bosphorus views and contemporary furnishings are a license to gouge and serve up flaccid…
November 26, 2012
IstanbulWe can’t prove it, but we suspect a network of tunnels lies underground in Beyoğlu that connects most of the meyhanes of Asmalımescit and Nevizade Sokak to the same mediocre kitchen, resulting in unexceptional mezes at scores of venues in this dining district. Following a number of tips, our search for a standout meyhane led…
