Athens’s central and largest food market is located off of National Road, between downtown Athens and Piraeus port, in an industrial area called Rendis. It covers about 60 acres of land and was inaugurated back in 1959 when the city realized that the two existing markets of Piraeus and central Athens were not enough to cover the population’s needs. But there was also a vision of developing Rendis (which back then was an agricultural zone, with lots of farmers working the fields in the area) as the main source of food supply for the city of Athens.
Moreover, the location that was picked for the market was convenient, as it is easy to access both from the north and south of Attica. For visitors today, it’s best to drive there or take a taxi, and once you approach the market, you’ll notice the huge trucks heading towards it. Larger shops selling vegetables, fruit, seafood, meat and hundreds of other food products line the entrance and wind around the main market gate. When you pass through the gate, a whole new wonderful world of food arises: stunning seafood and fresh fish, fruit from every corner of the world, beautiful cheeses, fresh and frozen vegetables, whole hanging cows and pigs, deli products, and, of course, a few eateries, to cater the daily needs of the market’s hundreds of food sellers and buyers.
Until a couple of years ago, the Rendis Market was only open for wholesale, but at some point it opened up to the general public, giving people a chance to shop at remarkably lower prices than the supermarket. New eateries and pop-up restaurants have joined the market over the past few years, too, attracting more and more visitors to this wonderland of food. Across the street from the main market gate and to the right, behind parked trucks and between food storage sheds, lies a brand-new culinary gem called Polpo, whose name means “octopus” in Italian.
The owner, Nikos Katsikakis, comes from Samos Island. He began his career as a fisherman, gradually building his own network of fishing boats, and in the late 1990s he set up his own fish and seafood supply company, organizing a storage and packaging unit for his fresh catch in the Rendis market. With hard work and devotion, he managed to become one of the best seafood suppliers in the country, providing his top-notch products to some of the country’s best restaurants. His collaborations go beyond the Greek borders; he also exports his fish to fine-dining restaurants abroad, and for several years he was the main supplier for the famous Milos group restaurants, sending his fish all the way to New York, Miami, Montreal and London. Recently his two children, Yiannis and Aphrodite, both in their twenties, happily joined his business as well, Aphrodite mostly helping in the fish supply shop and Yiannis at the restaurant.
Polpo opened by chance – in fact, Nikos wasn’t planning to open a restaurant at all. During all these years, Nikos’s main shed has been located on the street right outside the market gate. In early 2023, the shop right next to it was left vacant. He immediately seized the opportunity to rent it as he thought it would be a great idea to expand his shed for extra storage and fridge space.
The restaurant idea came from his children. They saw the potential of the location, with so many people who work at and visit the market daily. Most importantly, they felt that as the wholesalers of some of the country’s finest seafood – usually only found in the best and often pricey restaurants – why not cook and serve it themselves, simply, like they would at home?
The idea came to life as a simple and modern space, with an open kitchen and just a few tables. Nikos, an experienced home cook, designed the whole menu himself and the recipes are his, taken from the dishes he makes at home.
“No one in the kitchen is a trained chef,” he says, with a huge smile. “I never expected this to become so successful; it’s crazy! I just did it the way I knew!” Word spread fast, and since Polpo opened, the place has been packed every day. “I feel so bad not to be able to serve everyone,” Nikos continues. “I am obliged to send people away every day just because there isn’t enough space to sit them all.”
Here, the dishes are simple and of the highest quality seafood. “We are located right at the source…we just buy whatever we may need daily from this market,” says Nikos. He encouraged us to try the horta, which he had just picked up, referring to what the Greeks call the foraged seasonal greens that are commonly boiled or blanched and served as a salad drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice – a classic side to fish and seafood around here.
A small selection of cold and warm starters puts you in the mood for what’s about to come: fresh marinated anchovies, boiled octopus bites marinated in vinegar, steamed mussels, hand-cut fried potatoes, taramosalata (fish roe dip) and more enticing options. Also on the menu is a warming fish soup, and pasta with seafood.
With all these choices, make sure you save space for the grilled seafood. Check which fish is fresh on the day and just order it grilled. One of the best things we tasted on our visit were the magnificent “shrimp of the valley,” a type of shrimp known for their bright red color and sweet flavor, which are fished at a depth of 300 meters in the underwater valley of Ermionida in the Peloponnese Peninsula. They were perfectly grilled and simply drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with pure sea salt. Perfection! The sea bass tartare was also divine, served with tasty salmon roe. As if that wasn’t enough, Nikos then brought out grilled fresh calamari, again cooked to perfection and thinly sliced in rings. To complement this wonderful meal, you can choose from their fine selection of Greek wines, Greek beers, ouzo or tsipouro. Greeks always pair their seafood with good drinks!
For the many market workers craving a bite but with no time for a proper sit-down meal, Nikos created two options for a seafood souvlaki wrap – one with breaded and fried cod and one with shrimp. Polpo offers a delivery service as well, so customers can enjoy their delicious seafood in their own home if they fancy. For dine-in, it’s recommended to book a table in advance.
Due to the fact that the restaurant is in this central market area, it mostly operates during the day, serving lunch or early dinner (early for the Greek standards, that is) and it closes down at 9 p.m. when the market has quieted down and almost everything around it is shut. Nikos and his family need to refill their batteries before starting their morning shift the next day at 4 or 5 a.m. at their regular seafood shed, sending their fish to the finest restaurants as Nikos has done for years – and now, prepping for their own culinary adventure as well.
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