Sign up with email

or

Already a member? Log in.

Trouble logging in?

Not a member? Sign up!

In early September and October, Athens – just like many other cities around the world – sees an influx of young people leaving home for the first time to spend the next four years in intellectual pursuits and drinking coffee. Few among them are as concerned with what they’re eating as they are with other, seemingly more important matters, and so Greek student life is usually associated with deliveries of souvlaki, pizza and other minor domestic disasters. But for young people eating on the cheap, fast food doesn’t have to be the only option; local restaurants often offer student specials this time of year.

The mezedopoleio, as we’ve written about previously, is similar to the Spanish tapas bar: Small plates of mezes are passed around for everyone to share and are often accompanied by homemade ouzo, tsipouro and wine on draft. Because of their cheap and cheerful ethos and their sometimes live Greek music, the mezedopoleio is a hallmark of Greek student life. Of the standbys, most are not known for good cooking: Their pies and dips usually come straight from the supermarket freezer. There are exceptions, of course – such as the outdoorsy classic Dexameni or the super-trendy Mavro Provato. We know of two more that use regional Greek cuisine as an inspiration to serve something fresh and authentic.

The first is in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Petralona. An old working-class suburb, Petralona has become a nightlife destination with bars and restaurants on every corner. Aster, named for the flower, is the best of the bunch. Ideally placed near Zefyros, one of Athens’ best outdoor cinemas, this eatery specializes in Cretan delicacies. The interior, with its mosaic tiled floors and Formica tables, conjures up the 1960s, and the mismatched tableware looks like it was cobbled together from various grandmothers’ tea sets.

Sto Dafni's Cephalonian riganada with pretza, photo by Anastasia SiomouWe’re more interested in what’s served on that tableware, of course. All the dishes range between €2 and €5. One of our favorites is the asteropitakia (many menu items have been given names that are a play on the word “aster”), small phyllo pockets stuffed with mizithra cheese and honey. We also love the vinegary sausage, a homemade delicacy that really stands out from the rest. We ordered the freshly cut potatoes with xigalo, a soft, tangy goat’s or sheep’s milk cheese from the Siteia region of Crete. Although xigalo has been recognized with a protected designation of origin, it’s relatively unknown in Athens.

Another excellent mezedopoleio sits in under-the-radar Dafni, a mostly residential area in the southern suburbs of Athens that has recently become more popular because of its metro station. Sto Dafni opened less than a year ago. It’s got the trappings of a typical Athenian eatery: mosaic floors, loud Greek music on the speakers (they swore to us that they sometimes play punk rock) and simple wooden chairs and tables. A favorite hangout among locals, the place is full even on weekdays.

The menu comes in an old-fashioned student handbook, and the food takes up only two pages. The dishes, which have a Cephalonian influence, are simple yet delicious. The Ionian island of Cephalonia (one of the owners hails from there) is famous for its cooking, particularly for its ingenious pies – we especially love the octopus pie and cod pie – and soft, buttery feta. On that island, feta trimmings (usually what’s left in the bottom of the barrel where feta has been stored) are mixed with olive oil and thyme to make a spread called pretza. Sto Dafni’s traditional riganada (rigani is “oregano” in Greek) combines toasted bread that has been soaked in water and olive oil with plenty of oregano, pretza and a topping of tomato. We also love the amazing spicy sausage with dried figs cooked in a sweet, tangy sauce of grape molasses. While the menu also offers dishes like patatas bravas and fried cheese, it’s those Cephalonia-inspired dishes that really impress.

Sto Dafni, photo by Anastasia Siomou

  • Burmese BitesJuly 17, 2019 Burmese Bites (0)
    Update: This spot is sadly no longer open. Stretched to translucence by a series of […] Posted in Queens
  • Tokyo KissatenSeptember 19, 2016 Tokyo Kissaten (0)
    Our eyes take a moment to adjust to the dim light upon walking into Ladrio. The room is […] Posted in Tokyo
  • Expendio de MaizAugust 30, 2019 Expendio de Maiz (0)
    Tucked against the back wall of the Expendio de Maiz kitchen are three massive metal […] Posted in Mexico City

Published on October 03, 2014

Related stories

Myo Lin Thway of Burmese Bites, photo by Dave Cook
July 17, 2019

Burmese Bites: Morsels from Myanmar

Queens | By Dave Cook
QueensUpdate: This spot is sadly no longer open. Stretched to translucence by a series of acrobatic, table-slapping wrist flips, then stretched just a bit further until it seemingly must tear under its own weight, the palata dough passes from the hands of Myo Lin Thway. In a moment, other hands take over. Perhaps they fill…
September 19, 2016

Tokyo Kissaten: Coffee and (Minimal) Conversation

Tokyo | By Davey Young
TokyoOur eyes take a moment to adjust to the dim light upon walking into Ladrio. The room is like a vault, its brick walls and floor emitting a scent familiar to anyone who’s ever been in a cave or stone cellar. This mustiness is comforting, however, and the cool air a welcome reprieve from the…
August 30, 2019

Expendio de Maiz: Tortilla Rebels

Mexico City | By Lydia Carey
Mexico CityTucked against the back wall of the Expendio de Maiz kitchen are three massive metal pots. Containing cloudy mixtures of corn kernels and limestone water, they seem to sit unattended, when in fact intermittent yet constant attention is being paid to their progress. What is happening is one of the most ancient and important processes…
Select your currency
USD United States (US) dollar
EUR Euro