Join Culinary Backstreets

Sign up with email

or

Already a member? Log in.

Log in to Culinary Backstreets

Trouble logging in?

Not a member? Sign up!

In Athens, we take full advantage of our proximity to water. An incredible variety of fresh fish and seafood go straight from the fishing nets into our pots and onto our grills. So naturally, we know a thing or two when it comes to seafood restaurants. One is the master of fried dishes, another grilled, while yet another on our short list is known for creative experimentation. What they have in common is supremely fresh seafood at a reasonable price (as well as a penchant for fishing nets as decoration, it seems). And they’re all located close to the sea – where else could they be? In no particular order:

1.Taxidevontas

Located near Anastasi Cemetery in Keratsini, this marine-themed restaurant offers a huge variety of ouzo and a daily changing menu that would impress any deep-diving seafood lover. The owners’ fishermen friends bring in whatever they’ve caught that day, which might mean mussels, shrimp, lobster or squid, as well as mackerel that the restaurant smokes in-house, tuna and other fish big and small that you can have fried or grilled to order.

2. Yannis 

Southeast of Piraeus’s port, in the neighborhood of Chatzikiriakio, lies one of Athens’ best fish taverns. As at Taxidevontas, there’s a seagoing theme to the décor here. We love the expertly grilled fish accompanied by boiled greens or seasonal salads. The chef works wonders with octopus, which is deliciously chewy and crispy at the same time. Service is fast even when the water gets rough – er, so to speak.

3. Kapetanios 

Charge your cellphone because you’ll need the GPS to find Kapetanios in the industrial area of Retsina in Piraeus – it’s quite confusing for non-locals. First things first: when you enter this classic fish tavern, you select your fish from the refrigerated case. Mullets come perfectly fried, crisp on the outside, juicy inside. We highly recommend the crayfish too. If you’re in the mood for soup, call to order it ahead of time.

4. Strofi

(Editor’s note: We regret to report that Strofi is closed.) If we had to divide taverns into New Wave and Old School, Strofi, in business since 1977, would fit squarely among the latter. It’s a long drive from Athens to Perama, another industrial/working-class area, but this restaurant is a worthy destination. We love the razor clam-like petrosolines cooked in a simple lemon and oil sauce, as well as the sea urchin, so thrillingly fresh and vibrant in color and taste, like Strofi itself.

5. Argoura

On the outside, Argoura looks like just another neighborhood tavern, but the nets in the covered courtyard hint at what the kitchen’s up to. Still, the menu is full of surprises: mussels with seaweed and lemon sauce, prawns with fava beans and arugula and green salad with a sea urchin dressing. The eel is a masterpiece. If you love your seafood untouched by heat, you’ll find plenty of carpaccios and marinated seafood dishes to choose from. The bulk wine is one of the best we’ve ever had.

Related stories

restaurant lavrion
August 31, 2018

Taverna tou Veletakou: The Old Miner and the Sea

Athens | By Carolina Doriti
By Carolina Doriti
AthensThe geography of Lavrion, a seaside town located in southeast Attica, about a 45-minute drive from downtown Athens, has played a big role in shaping its population. The most important factor is Lavrion’s proximity to the sea. With an abundance of fish and seafood at its doorstep, as well as a marina and port, it’s…
July 26, 2013

CB on the Road: Exploring the Mythical Port of Piraeus

Athens | By Despina Trivolis
By Despina Trivolis
AthensPiraeus holds the distinction of being Greece’s biggest port, as well as the largest passenger port in Europe. Although it is a mere 20-minute train ride from downtown Athens, most Athenians think of Piraeus with a reverence reserved for a foreign country. There is just something almost mythic about this ancient port, which has been…
June 26, 2018

Psarokokkalo: Fish Out of Water

Athens | By Johanna Dimopoulos
By Johanna Dimopoulos
AthensThe sleepy residential neighborhood of Melissia, which lies northeast of downtown Athens and under Mount Pentelikon, is a rather unlikely place to visit. The suburb doesn’t have any notable sites, and apart from Kozi’s, a lovely South African meat restaurant, there’s not much in the way of distinguished eateries. So in 2012, when Ornel ‘Oli’ Mingo…
Select your currency
USD United States (US) dollar
EUR Euro