Holiday Eats -- Like the Proustian madeleine, sweets can stir up all kinds of feelings in the minds of those who eat them. In Naples,
struffoli (small, round doughnuts glazed with honey) and
cassata (sponge cake with ricotta and candied fruit) speak of Christmas, while
chiacchiere (sugar-dusted fritters) and
sanguinaccio (literally “blood pudding,” but actually made of chocolate) bring to mind
Carnevale.