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The Portuguese capital seems to have gone overnight from being a sleepy, almost forgotten city of crumbling buildings on the edge of Europe to a crowded tourist destination and a hotspot for property developers. The rapid change couldn’t be more jarring for Lisbon locals: It was as if Lisboetas had woken up from an exceptionally long slumber to find out that while they had been sleeping the rest of the world had suddenly become interested in their country and – as importantly – its food.
Introducing our pocket-sized Lisbon guide — perfect for your next culinary adventure. Yours free when you sign up for our newsletter.
Beyond Bacalhau: Neighborhood by Neighborhood, Bite by Bite
Our Backstreets Envoys, always searching for the next hidden gem
Célia, Lisbon Bureau Chief
Célia is a journalist, writing mostly about travel and food, and is the co-author of the book “Eat Portugal”, winner of a Gourmand World Cookbook Award. Her work can be seen in such publications as The Guardian, The Times (London) and Eater and she appeared on the Netflix program “Somebody Feed Phil” and The Wine Show. A proud Lisboeta with a wicked sweet tooth, Celia keeps searching for the best pastéis de nata so you don’t have to.
Austin, Lisbon Correspondent
Austin is an American writer and photographer based in Lisbon, Portugal. He was previously based in Bangkok, Thailand, for more than 20 years, from where he contributed to just about every major food and travel publication, as well as to more than 30 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. In 2018, he wrote and photographed the James Beard Award finalist, The Food of Northern Thailand. His next book, The Food of Southern Thailand, will be out in 2023.
Gisela, Culinary Guide
Gisela’s curiosity is what set her on a path to become a tour guide 2016, with the entire city of Lisbon as her beautiful “office.” She loves learning from her clients, who come from all over the world, and to share with them her knowledge. Her biggest reward is to see them learning and smiling with her. Defined by her joy and smile, she is most passionate about people and their stories, along with history, philosophy and culture. Gisela believes communication is a super power that keeps the world spinning and that there’s no better way to communicate than seated at a table tasting good traditional food!
Ines, Lisbon Walk Leader
Born and raised in Lisbon, Inês loves her city and its history. She studied European Studies, Leisure Management and Tourist Entertainment. Besides being a tour guide she works as a storyteller, actress and playwright. As a tour guide, she shares her knowledge of history, culture and, naturally, the richness of Portuguese cuisine.
Irene, Lisbon Walk Leader
Though native to Italy, Irene is European vagabond at heart and has called many of the continent’s greatest dining cities home before settling in Lisbon. Her standards are understandably high. But her affair with food began at her grandmother’s elbow as a little girl in Italy. Her grandmother not only taught her how to cook but how to love food, a defining characteristic of Irene’s life ever since. Formerly a restaurant owner in Lisbon and a chef there and onboard catamarans that sailed the Mediterranean, Irene is always interested in new culinary experiences. An avid and curious cook and traveler, she has set roots in Lisbon, dug deep into its culinary life and is eager to share all that she has discovered.
Kika, Lisbon Walk Leader
Born and raised in Lisbon, don’t get Kika started about the city’s charms- the light, tile-clad buildings, the history, the beaches and, of course, the food. A professional tour guide and talented home cook, Kika is a natural ambassador for her city’s cuisine. When she’s not leading tours in the backstreets, she’s probably in one of her favorite pasteleria trying to satisfy her addiction to Portuguese pastries.
Martim, Lisbon Walk Leader
Martim, born in Lisbon and raised in the Chiado district, has been rambling in backstreet eateries since before he could reach the counter of the corner tasca. He got a bachelor in Law and worked as a lawyer for a few years, but recently decided to take a chance out of the corporate world. Passionate about the richness and history of the Portuguese gastronomy, Martim loves the Portuguese people’s way of life and their deeply entrenched habit of spending long hours around a table with family and friends.
Patricia, Lisbon Walk Leader
Patricia Brum is an archaeologist with a special connection to Portuguese gastronomy through her work in the ruins of Troia, where the Romans produced salted fish and fish sauces, like garum. Unlike almost all Portuguese, bacalhau is not her thing, but she’ll wax poetic over a plate of fresh clams with garlic and cilantro.
Rodrigo, Lisbon Photographer
Photographer Rodrigo Cabrita was born in Oeiras, Portugal in 1977. He started his career at the daily newspaper Diário de Notícias in 2001 and has worked at a variety of publications since then. He is now a freelance photographer and takes part regularly in exhibitions. Rodrigo has won several photojournalism awards, most notably the Portuguese Gazeta award.
João, Lisbon Walk Leader
João’s diverse roots- Portuguese, French, Angolan and Cape Verdean- means he grew up in an all-star kitchen where a proper French tart may be in the oven while a big pot of Cape Verdean cachupa simmers on the stove. His Lisbon today reflects this mixture and his fluency with the many cultures at home in the city make him a natural guide to its cuisine. With a background in the restaurant industry and a passion for Lisbon’s urban culture, João loves to share the fresh face of the city with guests.
Lara Branco, Lisbon Walk Leader
Born in Angola, Lara grew up Lisbon, after her family moved there in 1974, part of a wave of migrants from the former colonies who moved to Portugal. In Lisbon, her family established a restaurant serving African cuisine as a way to survive in their new home. It was within this environment, at her grandfather’s restaurant, that she grew up and developed her affair with food.
Lara studied marketing and advertising in university and worked for many years as a television and film producer. However, her passion for food led her to open her own restaurant in Lisbon. It was through this venture that she discovered the crucial role that culinary experiences play in evoking emotions and memories, creating narratives around our senses and leaving an indelible mark on people’s lives. The sheer joy of witnessing someone taking their first bite and seeing their eyes light up with pleasure is what motivates and rewards her work.
Laura, Lisbon Walk Leader
Laura, a proud 5th-generation Lisbon local, or “Alfacinha”, knows the city’s hills like the back of her hand, with the iconic Castelo de São Jorge —overlooking her grandparents’ homes— a cherished childhood playground. With a degree in Social and Cultural Communication and a background in advertising, she gradually grew interested in the wine culture and recently earned an MBA in Wines and Spirits from the Burgundy School of Business. Her professional and personal journey spans across Europe, Asia, and Central America. With an insatiable curiosity – and appetite! – Laura’s worldview is a rich tapestry of diverse references, flavors, aromas, and intercultural exchanges.
André grew up in Lisbon and has lived all around the world, including in the United States, the UK, Belgium, and Cape Verde. Over the years, he has worked in a variety of creative industries and even taught surfing in the south of Portugal. André returned to Lisbon in 2024 and is eager to show visitors the city’s incredible culinary traditions and how it honors its heritage while embracing new ideas and innovations. In his free time, André loves to explore Lisbon’s historic neighborhood and also its nearby beaches. Fun fact: he’s a magician, performing monthly in Lisbon!
CB’s work was started in 2009 by Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer as a humble food blog called Istanbul Eats. The following year we published a book of our reviews, now in its fifth edition. That year we also launched our first culinary walk in Istanbul, a route we are still using today. In 2012, we realized that what we built in Istanbul was needed in other cities we knew and loved. We started CB that year with Athens, Barcelona, Mexico City and Shanghai as pioneering members of our network. In 2013, we added Rio and also launched our iPhone application in Istanbul. In 2015, Tokyo and Tbilisi came into the fold. That year we published mini-guides to Barcelona and Athens and also launched an iPhone application in those cities. Our Eatinerary service, which provides travelers with tailor-made culinary travel itineraries, was also launched in 2015. In 2016, Lisbon – the latest city to kindle our curiosity – joined the CB network. In 2017 we added Naples and Queens, NY – two places with very compelling stories to tell – to our roster and also published full-size eating guides to Athens and Barcelona. In 2018, Porto joined the list of cities we cover.
Visual Dispatches from the Frontlines of Local Eating
Lisbon: An Eater’s Guide to the City
Part of our city guidebook series, this new book was created with those who travel to eat in mind. Comprehensive yet still pocketable, think of this little book as your trusted and knowledgeable local companion in Lisbon.
Where is Lisbon?
Lisbon is the capital city of Portugal located in the far southeastern corner of the European continent in the European Union. Lisbon is situated on the river Tejo or Tagus, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean a couple of kilometers from the city center.
What are the best things to do in Lisbon?
The best things to do in Lisbon are visiting its historic neighborhoods, medieval castle, public squares and palaces strewn throughout the city. While many tourists pack into the 28 Tram, we suggest following the rails on foot, saving the seat on the tram for locals who need it for their daily commutes. The city’s dining scene has much to offer and we’ve chronicled much of it here. The city is a great base for beach and nature trips in the region as well.
When is the best time of year visit Lisbon?
The best time to visit Lisbon is May-June to attend the festivals and September-October when the weather is best. July and August are the hottest month when much of the city slows down as locals leave on vacation.
What is the weather in Lisbon?
The weather in Lisbon is very good. Lisbon has more days of sunshine per year than any city in Europe. Average temperatures are 53F/11C in the coldest month, January up to 74F/24C in the hottest month, July.
Is Lisbon expensive?
Compared the other European cities, Lisbon is not expensive. A good cup of coffee rarely costs more than 1 EURO, nor does a glass of local beer. Portuguese food and wine is very high quality and inexpensive. The cost of living is quite low, though real estate prices are increasing rapidly.
Is Lisbon safe?
Compared to other European cities of its size, Lisbon is unusually safe. Incidents of violent crime are very rare though petty crime such as pickpocketing is a nuisance.
What is the best food in Lisbon?
The best food in Lisbon is fresh fish and seafood as well as Iberian pork. You can find all of this at simple neighborhood restaurants known as tascas.
Where is the best place to stay in Lisbon?
Lisbon is fairly small and walkable, so there are many good areas to stay in. The neighborhoods Principe Real and Chiado are very popular and central. Anjos and Graca are more up-and-coming and hip. For a good look at a really local neighborhood with a great dining scene, check out Alvalade.
What is the COVID-19 situation in Lisbon?
The COVID-19 situation in Lisbon is among the best in the world. The vaccination rate is one of the highest and current infection/hospitalization rates among the lowest. For the latest information please check.
Can Americans travel to Lisbon?
American citizens with a negative COVID test result or a valid proof of vaccination may travel to Portugal.
Can I fly directly to Lisbon?
You can fly directly to Lisbon from many locations worldwide. Check TAP for any new routes.
What is the best restaurant in Lisbon?
Lisbon has a very diverse dining scene from the traditional to the trendy that is changing all of the time. Please check our top 10 essentials list for our latest tips.
Are there beaches in Lisbon?
There are Atlantic beaches very close to Lisbon including Carcavelos which is a short train ride from downtown Lisbon and Costa Caparica which is a short drive across the river. Though not technically on the Ocean, Lisbon is very much a “beach town” culturally.
Is Lisbon suitable for children?
Lisbon is a great city for families with children. Public safety is among the highest in European cities, the people are warm and welcoming and there is a bakery selling custard tarts on nearly every corner.