One of our favorite places in Mexico City is Xochimilco. Like many visitors, when we hear the word “Xochimilco” the first thing that comes to our mind is a relaxing ride aboard a trajinera, or boat, on the waterways of this southern borough. We’ve been to Xochimilco many times before, on family excursions to buy flowers, plants and compost from the local farmers.
However, a visit to the colorful mercado in downtown Xochimilco is a completely different, not-to-be-missed experience. Ruth Alegria, our lovely guide for many things Mexico, loves Xochimilco. “The secret to a successful visit to any Mexican market is to get there early,” Ruth told us, and so we made plans to set out on a Saturday at 8:30 a.m.
Mercado Xochimilco is basically two markets in one. Xochitl Zona is the main market, where local and out-of-town producers and distributors sell their goods. Some of the best banana-leaf tamales we’ve tried in the city can be found at the corner of Vicente Guerrero and 16 de Septiembre right outside the market. Walking west on Vicente Guerrero, just a couple of doors down, there’s a man who sells delicious tamales de dedo. They’re just like regular tamales, made with masa and available with the usual pork, chicken and salsa fillings – our favorite is the one with refried beans – but they’re called finger tamales because of their resemblance to human digits. Don’t worry, no hands are harmed in the making of this type of tamal.
The inside of the market is full of local produce grown right on Mexico City’s remaining chinampas, man-made islands constructed for agriculture during pre-Hispanic times. Xochimilco is one of the most rural boroughs of the city, and you can really see it in the food found inside this market. There are two older women who sell frog and charal (small fish) tamales. “We’re the last people who sell this type of tamales in the city,” one of them told us. “Once we’re gone, this tradition will go with us.”
One entire aisle in the market is lined on both sides with women displaying big baskets full of tlacoyos. You can buy prepared tlacoyos to eat right there, or buy them by the dozen, unprepared, to take home.
The second market building, just across the street to the south of the Xochitl market, is known as the mercado de flores, or flower market. Here, as its name implies, you can find all kinds of flowers grown in the chinampas around Xochimilco. But this market offers a lot more than just flowers. You can find chileatole, a pre-Hispanic drink made with corn and hot peppers, all kinds of aguas frescas, tamales, quesadillas and candied fruit. During the weekends this market offers livestock – it doesn’t get any fresher than that!
The Xochimilco canals attract hundreds of thousands of tourists every year, but they’re not the only thing worth checking out in this beautiful part of the city. There’s always something new to taste, see, hear and experience in a traditional Mexican market, so be sure to spend some time ashore at this one.
Published on December 27, 2013
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