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The last 12 months have been quite a ride. Unlike the past two years, 2022 seemed to pass in the blink of an eye. While 2020 was a year for protecting ourselves from a microscopic menace, and 2021 a year in which we still were struggling to reconcile our old ways and the world’s “new normal,” this year has been a time to reap all the improvements and reflections we did during some of the 21st century’s most challenging years so far. In the end, some values have played a key role for facing this brave new world: strength and resilience to keep moving forward, excitement and optimism for what it is to come, and gratitude for being able to enjoy life as it is. The following places and dishes all have nurtured us with these feelings throughout the year.

Oscuro Brebaje’s powerful enchiladas de frijol

When talking about resilience and strength, there is no better dish that will keep us going through life – and the day – than black bean enchiladas. This beloved Oaxacan dish is a more powerful version of typical enchiladas; instead of a tomatillo sauce, the tortillas are bathed in a black bean salsa, served with a couple of sunny side up eggs, or a piece of tasajo – thinly sliced and slightly dried beef – with crumbled fresh cheese, onion, cilantro and sour cream on top. Oscuro Brebaje’s version of this classic is one of the most hearty and flavorful dishes we tried this year. The velvety bean sauce is spiced with avocado leaf, giving a subtle yet pungent aftertaste that balances the dense and more alkaline flavors of the beans. The tasajo is chopped in small juicy pieces, making it easy to mix its umami flavors with the other components of the dish – a universe of textures in every spoonful.

Besides the powerful enchiladas de frijol – called enfrijoladas by locals – at Oscuro Brebaje we can find great coffee, frappes, preparados – a sort of fruit smoothie with a base of milk or water – and desserts that can all be enjoyed in their large shady (and pet-friendly!) garden. The refreshing Fresita – lime, strawberry and mint with water – as well as their cheesecake brownie or the “Bruce” chocolate cake – in honor of the famous cake from the movie Matilda – are also a must.

Behind Oscuro Brebaje there is a story of resilience and adaptability. After a couple of pauses, OB has been able to stay open and moving boldly forward thanks to the team’s attention and creativity. Its young owner, Andrés González, age 24, has built an inclusive space that takes care of everyone’s dietary restrictions. The energy provided by bean enchiladas can be enjoyed by vegans, vegetarians and omnivores alike.

Mezcalite Pop’s exciting mimosa

For decades, the mimosa has been a drink that lifts spirits after a long night out, and this version is no different. But Mezcalite’s mimosa brings a touch of class and playfulness – it is a two-element combo composed of a fruit flavored popsicle of your choice (and infused with mezcal, or not) dunked in a glass of sparkling white wine until it melts. Some of the decadent popsicle flavors that can sweeten up the wine include orange, passionfruit, rose petal and strawberry, and mango, among others. The ice-cold temperature of the popsicle will keep the wine cool and give the drink a punch of fruit, ideal for a post-party pick-me-up.

Araceli Palacios, co-owner and creative director, believes life is to be celebrated every day. Since the day it opened five years ago, Mezcalite Pop has become a space where people can take a break and freshen up with sassy treats such as mimosas, mezcal-infused popsicles, or tropical fruit slushies sprinkled with sweet and sour chili salt. Mezcalite’s creations are a reminder that we don’t need to wait for a special occasion to be joyful or to indulge in a special treat. Whenever we were in doubt this year, feeling blue or tired after a long week, Mezcalite’s mimosas boosted our optimism about the here and the now.

Tostadas and pescadillas at La Cofra

This vibrant new spot brings the cool ocean’s mist to this increasingly busy city. One of the most underrepresented regions in Oaxaca’s foodscape is the coast and the incredible offer of seafood and fish that is normally consumed across Oaxaca’s coastal villages.

La Cofra is a bohemian spot full of friends enjoying great music and sharing mezcal, beers and micheladas, a concoction made up of beer, chili salt, spices, lime juice, and different liquid condiments. Headed by Eusebio “Chebo” Villalobos, chef and owner, La Cofra offers some of the most creative bites we found this year among the new restaurants that emerged in the city. Simple but succinct, Chebo’s tostadas – a sort of crispy flat tortilla with toppings – reveal his knowledge and meticulousness for cooking seafood, and the different sauces and relishes he prepares show his passion for experimenting with unexpected combinations.

The octopus carpaccio tostada is served with pickled octopus in Chebo’s secret sauce and caramelized onions, while the Mermaid Sashimi tostada is either prepared with snapper or red snapper and a “oaxacanized” ponzu salsa with mezcal instead of sake. La Cofra’s pescadillas – deep fried tortilla filled with smoked marlin, caper and almond stuffing – covered with a fresh cilantro salsa and a dash of mango-habanero sauce on the side, are made to order with freshly ground corn dough. Just like people offer feasts to thank the year’s harvest or go to the ocean to reconnect with the nature, we come to la Cofra to give thanks for ourselves, our families, and the fortune of enjoying good food.

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María ÍtakaJalil Olmedo

Published on December 22, 2022

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