Naples is a city of history, art, culture and gastronomy. But the most beautiful surprises of this city are the people – women and men who have dedicated lifetimes to their work, making it a real passion.
In the heart of the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish quarter) are two such men, the brothers Prigiobbo. Ciro (79) and Gennaro (76) have been chefs at the Pizzeria Trattoria Prigiobbo for truly a lifetime. We could say that they were born and raised here. Their grandfather Vincenzo opened the shop in 1917, it was taken over by their father Antonio in the 40s, and now, since the 60s, Gennaro and Ciro have been firing up the pizza oven.
The pizzeria has been declared a place of historical importance by the Municipality of Naples. In fact, everything about it seems to be the same as it must have been 100 years ago. Forget those pizza chefs who have become TV stars. Away from the media spotlight, the brothers Prigiobbo make pizza the simplest – and most ancient – way, as pizza should be. The shop, once a grocery store called Olio e Legumi (oil and legumes), became a wine canteen with a tavern when World War I ended. After World War II, the pizzeria business was added. The wood-burning oven is a post-war relic, made by quality craftsmen and adorned with a ceramic tile featuring the likeness of Saint Anthony the Abbot, the patron saint of pizza makers, fire fighters and pigs.
“Until 20 years ago, there were only five pizzerias in the Spanish quarter,” Ciro tells us. “Today, the number of trattorias and pizzerias has become incalculable.” But the inhabitants of the quarter – at least judging by the constant bustle of people who come here to buy pizza – remain devoted to the offerings of the Prigiobbo brothers. “The prices have always been very reasonable, and this is one of the strengths of the venue,” Gennaro says. “The takeaway margherita pizza costs only 3 euros. And we can do this because we do everything by ourselves. Only the family is at work in the pizzeria.”
At the table, as is the Neapolitan tradition, the pizza is preceded by a very fresh, hand-made fritturina (fried appetizer plate), which for some is the real specialty of the restaurant. The frittura all’Italiana (Italian-style fry) is comprised of small hand-made potato croquettes, extraordinary rice balls, polenta cubes, meatballs with broccoli, and eggplant or other vegetables, all served on traditional metal trays.
Prigiobbo is made up of two small rooms with 20 tables, plus a few outside; the kitchen sits proudly in the center. The list of pizzas is limited, which is always a good sign. We order what is a very good margherita – with “a shade of tomato,” according to the Prigiobbo brothers – to honor the pizza born here in the Spanish quarter. According to legend, this world-renowned, classic pizza with tomato (red), mozzarella (white) and basil (green) – the three colors of the Italian flag – was named margherita in 1889 in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy. The small menu also includes the basic dishes of the Neapolitan tradition: spaghetti alla puttanesca and alla carbonara, penne with tomato sauce, fried anchovies and fried squid. Again, few, simple dishes.
“The generations of inhabitants from the Spanish quarter order take away mainly from us,” Ciro says. He adds that “before the Covid” the pizzeria also had a lot of traffic from office workers as well as office orders because of how close they are to the financial district. The Covid-19 outbreak has had a heavy impact on the pizzeria’s business. The venue has worked mainly via delivery for over a year. As of June 2021, it’s possible to dine-in on pizza orders, with the trattoria offerings on hold, though the brothers hope to bring them back come September. “The job of a pizza maker is very hard,” Ciro says. “My brother and I are certainly the last link in the generation of our family of pizza makers; our sons are all university graduates, and no one wants to continue.” But, he adds, even with Covid-19, it’s easier these days. The two brothers are now sure to take about 20 days off each summer. “For 50 years, we had only six days of holiday a year,” Ciro reminds us.
More time off may be one of the only things they have changed with time at Pizzeria Trattoria Prigiobbo. Here is a neighborhood institution that has had the same heart and soul for almost 100 years.
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