Join Culinary Backstreets

Sign up with email

or

Already a member? Log in.

Log in to Culinary Backstreets

Trouble logging in?

Not a member? Sign up!

Share on FacebookTweet about this on TwitterEmail this to someone

The dog is in the car whining with a lusty craze at every cat and dog she sees. It’s shedding season and tufts of her hair puff off at every lurch and bounce in the back seat, the window smeared with her nose art.

We park at the top of the street and walk down to school to pick up her six-year-old master, who grumbles that she’s hungry, starving even, and asks if we can go to “that bar.” The fridge is empty at home and “that bar” – the Black Dog – stands between us and the car. It is an excellent suggestion.

The Tbilisi bar scene is a recent phenomenon in the scope of what is by tradition an intense dining culture. The first bar, we were told, arrived in the 1990s on Perovskaya Street. Other Irish-themed pubs soon followed. These rowdy places, where vodka was served by the bottle and not by the shot, featured live rock and roll and were embraced by people hungry for a taste of the west and expats who found solace in a familiar “party hearty” barroom atmosphere.

Today we are no longer limited to the Pervoskaya (now Akhvlediani St.) experience, and, as in any Western metropolis, we can get beers and cocktails all over the city. What we lack, however, are laid back neighborhood joints where we can grab a pint after work, relax and socialize with the bartender and our peers.

Located in Tbilisi’s old Sololaki district, the Black Dog Bar opened five months ago and is noteworthy for being one of Tbilisi’s few smoke-free watering holes, dishing up good bar grub and pouring craft beer. Equally significant is that it is the first self-declared pet-friendly bar.

On this visit, our mutt Ramses is in luck, for there’s a Russian spaniel at the bar. They sniff and measure each other up and soon it is all play, the tip-taps of clicking dog nails on the floor competing with the Northern Soul on the net radio.

Meanwhile, we discuss the menu board with the owner. There’s no Georgian food on the menu because “you can get that everywhere,” says proprietor Zura Chitaya, a Moscow bar owner who returned to his native Tbilisi a year ago. The burritos, stuffed with a myriad of ingredients – including pickles – are Mexican only in name but still make for appetizing fodder to soak up the booze. We order the chicken fingers, stuffed pepper poppers and a cheeseburger and apple juice and a Black Dog Ale beer to wash it down.

Here in the “cradle of wine,” beer is a second-rate beverage, paired with hangovers and khinkali. Toasts, an integral part of Georgian drinking culture, are made with only wine and spirits, while beer toasts were reserved for mothers-in-law, the president and other distasteful people. Attitudes, however, are changing. In 2007, the Patriarch of the Georgian Orthodox Church gave his blessing to beer toasts, as it is the ceremonial drink of Georgia’s proud highlanders. While nobody really toasts with beer, we no longer hoist our mugs to the man with the tattoo of an eagle on his chest who is still afraid of his mother.

From a choice between two brands of lager and caramel-like darks 15 years ago, there are now 50 types of beers from several local brewers to choose from. Nevertheless, many Tbilisi bars reject local brands and only serve imported beer, a policy that turns your pocketbook into a sieve.

The Black Dog’s idea of exclusive is to serve drinks you can only find in Georgia. This is especially true of the beer, which is made solely for the bar by a small local beer meister. Craft beer is years from becoming fashionable in Tbilisi, yet there are a few bars serving decent micro suds. The Black Dog pours a surprising porter, a reasonable lager and an ale that’s so good it demands to be refilled. Also on tap is a Belgian witbier with a bitter ale, stout and Irish red in the works at their own brewery, which Chitaya hopes to get up and running in a few months.

The master, a brutal food critic, digs into the chicken fingers with fierce relish, but becomes discouraged by the heavy curry spicing. The poppers, stuffed with sulguni cheese, are a definite novelty but too spicy for her. The tender and juicy burger is a hit, and rightly so. For 11 lari (about US$4,50), it’s also a great deal.

Anton the bartender rings the bell, announcing game time. Challenge him to a roll of dice and you might win a free shot, or you might not and have to pay three lari for a titillating shot of homemade chacha or a plum, apple or apricot brandy. There are no losers at the Black Dog Bar, a friendly neighborhood joint where not only does “everybody know your name,” but they know your dog’s name too.


Address: 33 Lado Asatiani St., Sololaki
Telephone: +995 555 58 6688
Hours: 2pm-3am

  • EzoOctober 12, 2015 Ezo (0)
       Posted in Tbilisi
  • Vino UndergroundJanuary 26, 2017 Vino Underground (0)
    Posted in Tbilisi
  • February 20, 2014 Barba (0)
    Editor's note: [We're pleased to report that Barba has reopened in a new location. See […] Posted in Istanbul
Justyna Mielnikiewicz

Related stories

October 12, 2015

Ezo: Just Like Mom's

By Paul Rimple
Tbilisi -- The 19th-century homes in old Tbilisi neighborhoods were built in a style Georgians call “Italian Courtyards,” where through a gate or arch you enter a quad enclosed by stories of balconies shared by each family on the floor. This courtyard was the nucleus of each building, where kids safely romped around, monitored by…
January 26, 2017

Vino Underground: Wine Heaven

By Paul Rimple
Tbilisi -- Ènek poured a rosy-colored splash of wine into our glasses, avidly explaining how this particular Aladasturi grape vine was meticulously cultivated in its native west Georgia.In a tasting ritual uncommon in Georgia, we swirled it, sniffed it and savored the flavor as it caressed our tongues. Here in the “cradle of wine,” the…
February 20, 2014

Barba: Fun House

By Istanbul Eats
Istanbul -- Editor's note: [We're pleased to report that Barba has reopened in a new location. See below for address.] We're going on a Global Bar Crawl this week, and today we're stopping at a building in Istanbul that has five floors of bars and clubs. Tomorrow we head to Mexico City for some mezcal. We like…