Join Culinary Backstreets

Sign up with email


Already a member? Log in.

Log in to Culinary Backstreets

Trouble logging in?

Not a member? Sign up!

Barcelona’s urban sprawl makes it easy to forget that the city is adjacent to two fertile regions to the north and south, El Maresme and El Baix Llobregat, which provide numerous hyperlocal culinary treasures throughout the year.

In spring as in other seasons, these treasures appear at markets and restaurants, their origins proudly displayed, sometimes even with the names of the specific villages that they come from.

The coast and gently sloping mountains of El Maresme are home to numerous villages, three natural parks and beaches. Unsurprisingly, there’s an abundance of seafood here, including gamba de Arenys (Arenys prawns), scampi (escamarlans in Catalan, cigalas in Spanish) and little Mediterranean sand eels (sonsos in Catalan). Those eels are not so easy to find nowadays, but when fried they make a great local tapa with the excellent local white wine, D.O. Alella.

The land here produces the renowned Ganxet beans and especially tasty Maresme strawberries. But during spring, this area produces the tender and delicate peas known as pèsols del Maresme (and pèsols de Llavaneras if they come from the village Sant Andreu de Llavaneres). These peas, floreta and garrofal varieties mainly, are grown near the sea, and the salinity here results in sweeter legumes.

El Baix Llobregat, south of Barcelona, is a powerful region where urban infrastructure, industrial zones and residential villages share space with a great deal of agricultural production. Since the Spanish Civil War, the main crop here has been the El Prat artichoke, in season throughout winter and until the end of April. In these months, you’ll find this green queen on virtually every menu in Barcelona, grilled, stewed and in omelets. When spring is at its peak, we welcome the arrival of earthy, juicy white asparagus, the most famous of which are grown in the village of Gavá, along with fava beans.

Many of these spring wonders can be had at lunch or dinner, in traditional or contemporary recipes, throughout the city. The fava beans are commonly cooked in the classic Catalan way with black butifarra and ham – perhaps with a poached egg – but they might also star in a recreation of a 17th-century dish that uses almond milk and fresh herbs, as made by the great Dos Pebrots.

Recipes and availability for delicate Maresme peas are more variable but can usually be found in numerous restaurants focusing on market cuisine. We love Can Pineda’s amazing traditional dish of peas with ham, for example: we always end up chewing it very slowly in order to make it last longer. El Suculent just opened the season with a delectable surf-and-turf dish of Maresme peas with cuttlefish paired with a very thin slice of bacon and some juicy Baix Llobregat asparagus with a smoked-eel carbonara sauce.

Among our other favorite places to find Maresme or Llavaneres peas are are Freixa Tradició, Ca L’Isidre, Coure, the Adriá brothers’ Bodega 1900, the great new sensation in Sants, Mundana, and the Michelin-starred Disfrutar.

Editor’s note: It’s Spring Week at Culinary Backstreets, and we’re celebrating with dispatches on seasonal produce from a few of our cities.

Dos Pebrots
Address: Doctor Dou 19, Raval
Telephone: +34 93 853 9598
Hours: Wed.-Sun. 1-11pm; closed Monday and Tuesday
Can Pineda
Address: Carrer de Sant Joan de Malta 55, El Clot
Telephone: +34 93 308 3081
Hours: Tues.-Sat. 1-4pm & 9-11pm; closed Sunday, Monday & holidays
El Suculent
Address: Rambla del Raval 45, Raval
Telephone: + 34 93 443 6579
Hours: 12:30pm-12:30am
Freixa Tradició
Address: Sant Elies 22, Sant Gervasi
Telephone: +34 93 209 7559
Hours: Tues.-Sat. 1-3:30pm & 9-11:30pm, Sun. 1-3:30pm; closed Monday
Ca L’Isidre
Address: Carrer de les Flors 12, Raval
Telephone: +34 93 441 1139
Hours: Mon.-Sat. 1:30-4pm & 8:30-11pm; closed Sunday
Address: Passatge Marimón 20
Telephone: +34 93 200 7532
Hours: Tues.-Sat. 1-4pm & 8pm-12:30am
Bodega 1900
Address: Carrer de Tamarit 91
Telephone: +34 93 325 2659
Hours: Tues.-Sat. 1-10:30pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Address: Carrer del Vallespir 93, Sants
Telephone: +34 93 408 8023
Hours: Tues.-Thurs. 1-3:30pm & 8-11:30pm; Fri.-Sat. 1-4pm & 8pm-midnight; Sun. 1-4pm; closed Monday
Address: Carrer Villarroel 163, L’Eixample
Telephone: +34 93 348 6896
Hours: Tues.-Sat. 1-2:45pm & 8-9:45pm; closed Sunday and Monday

Related stories

May 18, 2017

El Bisaura: Fishmonger to Table

By Paula Mourenza
Barcelona -- Inside Barcelona’s lesser-known Mercat de Les Corts is a small, unassuming bar offering up the bounty of the Mediterranean. El Bisaura opens up shop at 6:30 a.m., serving esmorzars de forquilla (hearty Catalan breakfasts like sausage and beans, tripe stew and grilled cuttlefish) to local workers. At lunch, it serves a more refined…
May 10, 2017

Sergi de Meiá: Back to the Land

By Paula Mourenza
Barcelona -- Sergi de Meiá, in his own words, “started in cuisine the day he was born,” growing up as he did in his mother’s restaurant. He received his first cooking lessons from her and from a family full of chefs and cooks before heading off to cooking school at 14. Nowadays, his mother, Adelaida…
May 30, 2017

El Racó del Mariner: Sole Survivor

By Paula Mourenza
Barcelona -- There are certain places that experience the strange phenomenon where everything and nothing change at the same time. Take the example of El Racó del Mariner (The Sailor’s Corner), located for 40 years at the old fishermen’s dock in the port of La Barceloneta until it was forced to move when the area…