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Berlin Wall No2

Berlin Wall No2 is a rickety wood and plastic-sheeting structure on the pavement right on the Greek-Cypriot side of the “Green Line,” as the border […]

Apomero

On our first morning in Nicosia we sat down at a sunlit outdoor table in a picturesque cafe and asked the waiter what Cypriots ate […]

Peiragmena

There’s something about the produce in Cyprus. The tomatoes taste sweeter, the watermelons juicier and the oranges zestier than any we’ve tasted elsewhere.

Hamur

Turkish Cypriot Hülya Çavuşoğlu had always been a good cook but had never thought about making it her profession. That changed in 1995 when, looking […]

Mattheos

Cyprus’s tavernas are famous for flame-grilled meat, fish and halloumi cheese, but go to an islander’s home and you’re much more likely to find a […]

Tsipouraki Mezedaki

Nicosia’s Old Town grabs your senses in many different ways. You still enter it through 16th-century Venetian walls. Wander its narrow streets and you’ll see […]

January 25, 2017

Berlin Wall No2: Hole in the Border

By Samantha Shields
Nicosia -- Berlin Wall No2 is a rickety wood and plastic-sheeting structure on the pavement right on the Greek-Cypriot side of the “Green Line,” as the border that divides the Cypriot capital is known. Read more
November 10, 2016

Apomero: Eyes on the Pies

By Samantha Shields
Nicosia -- On our first morning in Nicosia we sat down at a sunlit outdoor table in a picturesque cafe and asked the waiter what Cypriots ate for breakfast. Read more
July 5, 2016

Peiragmena: Seasonal Food, Tweaked

By Samantha Shields
Nicosia -- There’s something about the produce in Cyprus. The tomatoes taste sweeter, the watermelons juicier and the oranges zestier than any we’ve tasted elsewhere. Read more
April 20, 2016

Hamur: Dough Nation

By Samantha Shields
Nicosia -- Turkish Cypriot Hülya Çavuşoğlu had always been a good cook but had never thought about making it her profession. That changed in 1995 when, looking for a change, she quit her job in a government office and started a business making and delivering home-cooked food, specializing in mantı, a dumpling found throughout the Turkic world, and börek, stuffed pockets of dough. Read more
February 17, 2016

Mattheos: Extra-Slow Food

By Samantha Shields
Nicosia -- Cyprus’s tavernas are famous for flame-grilled meat, fish and halloumi cheese, but go to an islander’s home and you’re much more likely to find a pot of something slow-cooked simmering on the stove. Mageireia are traditional Cypriot restaurants serving this comfort food at reasonable prices. Read more
December 31, 2015

Tsipouraki Mezedaki: Old Town, New Life

By Samantha Shields
Nicosia -- Nicosia’s Old Town grabs your senses in many different ways. You still enter it through 16th-century Venetian walls. Wander its narrow streets and you’ll see architectural shadows of the Ottoman, French and British regimes that have ruled Cyprus over the past 500 years. Read more